Transform your long Singapore layover into an exciting adventure with these things to do in or out of Changi Airport within 24 hours!
The post Singapore Layover: Things to Do In & Out of the Airport in 24 Hours or Less appeared first on I am Aileen.
Wondering why you should travel to Mallorca? From breathtaking beaches to mouthwatering cuisine, here’s what makes this island a must-visit.
The post Why travel to Mallorca in 2025 appeared first on I am Aileen.
Years ago, I quit my job to travel the world. I was broke & I even held a third-world passport—and yet, I made it possible. Here's how!
The post How to Quit Your Job & Travel the World: 5 Steps to Start (All the Tips & Hacks You Need to Know!) appeared first on I am Aileen.
Learn to claim EU261 compensation for flight disruptions like delays, cancellations, downgrades, or denied boarding!
The post EU261 Compensation: Your Essential Guide on European Flight Delays or Cancellations appeared first on I am Aileen.
Enjoy Japan's spring season to the fullest and visit these Kyoto cherry blossom spots — from lesser-known locations to the most popular ones!
The post Kyoto Cherry Blossom Spots: 15 Best Sakura Hanami Viewing Locations (Tips & Travel Guide) appeared first on I am Aileen.
Plan out your spring itinerary with this South Korea cherry blossom forecast map: the ultimate guide for knowing when and where to go!
The post South Korea Cherry Blossom Season Forecast (2025): When & Where to Visit in Seoul and Other Regions appeared first on I am Aileen.
Find out the easiest ways on how to type enye Ñ/ñ accent characters on the keyboard of your laptop, computer, smartphone, iPhone and more!
The post How to Type Enye (Ññ) in Laptop Computer, iPhone, Android Keyboard, etc.: Small or Big Capital Letter appeared first on I am Aileen.
Start planning your sakura (cherry blossom) adventure with this Japan cherry blossom forecast! (Includes best spots for 'hanami' viewing!)
The post Japan Cherry Blossom Forecast 2025: When & Where to Visit for Sakura Viewing (By Region) appeared first on I am Aileen.
Make the most of the season and witness these top spring flowers in Korea! Find out the best places to go and when with this guide.
The post Spring Flowers in Korea: When & Where to Go (The Best Gardens, Fields and Spots) appeared first on I am Aileen.
See more than just the famed sakura by exploring flower fields, gardens or parks that showcase the other top spring flowers in Japan!
The post Spring Flowers in Japan: When & Where to Go (The Best Gardens, Fields, Parks, and Spots) appeared first on I am Aileen.
A conversation with the Peruvian photographer Musuk Nolte, whose dreamlike new book is the latest in a rich and truly original body of work that explodes the boundaries between documentary and art photography.
The post The Photographic Dreamscapes<br> of Musuk Nolte appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Cláudio Silva reflects on moving from Angola to the United States as a child, founding Angola's largest food and travel platform, and what the country’s current flourishing means not just for Angolans but for the world.
The post I Was Born in Luanda appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
What did the extended Roads & Kingdoms family learn in the hills of Emilia-Romagna? Let's start with these eight simple rules for travel.
The post Lessons from a Team Retreat appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
A father-daughter journalist team reports from Tbilisi, where nearly every night since protests broke out in October, the pioneering chef Tekuna Gachechiladze has been ladling out soup to demonstrators fighting for their country's future.
The post Soup at the Barricades<br> with the Queen of Georgian Cuisine appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
How does one become a successful chef and restaurateur? If there is a standard path, Andy Ricker sure as hell didn’t take it.
The post The Life and Wanderings<br> of Chef Andy Ricker appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Documentary photographer Cengiz Yar discusses his nine-year project documenting Mosul and the so-called war on terror's long-term effect on the northern Iraqi city
The post A Decade of Images in One Iraqi City:<br> Q&A with Photographer Cengiz Yar appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Drinking highballs and talking about life, creation, and food with Roads & Kingdoms co-founder Matt Goulding. A special revival episode of The Trip Podcast.
The post Matt Goulding on “Omnivore,” His Inventive New Show with René Redzepi appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
The beer is cheap and the larb is fresh, but Chiang Rai is more than all that. These 10 bits of local wisdom will help get you started.
The post 10 Things to Know Before You Go to Chiang Rai appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Ahead of our League of Travelers trip to northern Vietnam, R&K’s Charly Wilder caught up with Daniel Nguyen, an activist, distiller, researcher, and our host for this fall's journey into the highlands and beyond.
The post How Vietnam Eats Today:<br> Q&A with Daniel Nguyen appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
In Tanzania, NovFeed is transforming the country’s compost into a source of cheap and nutritious feed for farmed fish. NovFeed is a finalist for the 2024 Food Planet Prize.
The post Can Fruit Help Feed the Marine Life of Tanzania? appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
In Bangladesh, Pumpkin Plus transforms rural lives through the innovative technology of growing crops on sandbars. They are a finalist for the 2024 Food Planet Prize.
The post The Sandbar Farmers of Bangladesh appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Could an all-natural steam seed treatment replace mainstream agricultural chemical treatments? ThermoSeed, a finalist for the 2024 Food Planet Prize, thinks so.
The post A Swedish Seed Solution Takes On Big Agriculture appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Transfarmation is an organization helping former factory farmers move from debt-laden, environmentally damaging practices toward a sustainable future. Transfarmation is a finalist for the 2024 Food Planet Prize.
The post Taking the Factory Out of the Farm in the American West appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
In a small dry corner of England, Aquagrain is creating a super-absorbent biodegradable hydrogel that could help crops grow in degraded lands. Aquagrain is a finalist for the 2024 Food Planet Prize.
The post Could A Scientist’s New Soil Treatment Solve Desertification? appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Food accounts for 13% of cities’ carbon emissions every year. But a small league of C40 Good Food Cities, from New York to Quezon City, is hoping to change that.
The post A Global Alliance of Mayors Aims to Make Good Food Cities appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Ask Beatriz Janer about Seville’s storied Feria de Abril, and you’ll get a quick sense of what makes her photographer’s eye for detail so special.
The post Visions of Andalusia:<br> Q&A with Beatriz Janer appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
The geopolitical struggle between China and the Philippines has strangled Filipino fishermen’s access to some of their richest fishing grounds
The post A Fisherman’s Dilemma in the South China Sea appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Mestiza de Indias is an innovative, Maya-inspired regenerative farm in the middle of a region threatened by mass tourism and overdevelopment. Its founder has a lot to say about why food matters.
The post A Model Farm in the Yucatán Looks to the Ancient Maya appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
In a semi-hidden location in the north of Bangkok, an American-Thai chef has, somewhat improbably, opened one of the city’s most well-regarded restaurants.
The post Bangkok’s Unlikely New Culinary Hero appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Ahead of our League of Travelers trip to Mérida and environs, R&K’s Nathan Thornburgh caught up with Jeremiah Tower—Mérida resident, chef, author, diver and now Substacker—for a chat.
The post A Memoirist in Mérida: <br> Q&A with Jeremiah Tower appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
On Spain's Asturian coast, in the small fishing town of Puerto de Vega, on Plaza Cupido—Cupid Square—a self-taught cook writes culinary love letters to the Cantabrian Sea.
The post The Taste of Being Thrown Around by the Sea: Q&A with chef Mari Fernandez appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
The Toothpick Company turns fungi into bioherbicide to fight Striga, a devastating “master weed” that has devastated an estimated 40 million farms in Africa.
The post In Kenya, Using Fungi to Fight a War on Weeds appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
In Southeast Asia, the Protein Challenge is aiming for nothing less than a total transformation of regional food systems. The solution? Empowering and uniting the protein system’s various and diverse actors to create change from within.
The post Tackling Southeast Asia’s Protein Crisis appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Monarch Tractor has recently launched its first line of electric tractors with its groundbreaking MK-V model – the world’s first full-electric, driver-optional, data-collecting smart tractor. Its CEO hopes the company is going to revolutionize the future of farming.
The post Reinventing the Wheel appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Australian start-up Loam is using fungi to help crops capture carbon in the soil—and keep it there. It could be a game-changer for farmers and the fight against climate change.
The post Can Fungi Save our Soil? appeared first on Roads & Kingdoms.
Last Updated on December 8, 2024 by Audrey Scott While many cities in Germany have one main Christmas Market, Berlin has dozens of Christmas Markets from which you can choose based on your interests and style. So, which are the ... Continue Reading
The post Berlin Christmas Markets: The Ultimate Guide (Updated 2024) appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on September 12, 2024 by Audrey Scott Active sustainability communications should be an integral part of any sustainable tourism journey, yet it is often seen as an afterthought instead of integrated into all marketing and communications. This is ... Continue Reading
The post 7 Ways to Effectively Communicate Your Sustainability Story in Tourism appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on March 11, 2024 by Audrey Scott The 2024 International Women’s Day theme is Inspire Inclusion, a call to action “to break down barriers, challenge stereotypes, and create environments where all women are valued and respected.” While much ... Continue Reading
The post How Tourism Can Better Invest in Women appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on November 23, 2022 by Audrey Scott The tires of our e-bikes rested on the cobbles of what we imagined was an old imperial road. Our early morning cycle had wound up through the meadows and canopies of ... Continue Reading
The post Exploring Lazio: Off-the-Beaten Path Italy Outside Rome appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on February 9, 2025 by Audrey Scott The hike to the Lost City in northern Colombia takes you 46km (28 miles) round trip through the jungles, hills and river valleys of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We’d had our ... Continue Reading
The post The Lost City, Colombia: A Guide to Hiking to La Ciudad Perdida appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on February 4, 2023 by Audrey Scott What hiking essentials do I need for a multi-day hike? What gear and hiking backpack should I take on a day hike? What gear would be too much? And what hiking ... Continue Reading
The post How to Pack For A Hike: The Ultimate Hiking Essentials Checklist appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on December 1, 2022 by Audrey Scott Hiking in Cyprus may not be top of mind when travelers consider this Mediterranean island for vacation. Most associate it with its beaches and resorts. However, our recent visit to Cyprus ... Continue Reading
The post Hiking in Cyprus: Best Hiking Trails and Travel Itinerary appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on August 6, 2022 by Audrey Scott What is it like to go trekking in Bhutan? To go on a Himalayan mountain adventure with wide open landscapes, snow-covered peaks, Buddhist temples, prayer flags, high altitude camping and alpine ... Continue Reading
The post Bhutan Trekking: The Druk Path Trek and New Trans Bhutan Trail appeared first on Uncornered Market.
At the end of last year as winter days grew shorter and the holidays approached, we set our sights on checking in with each other before we found ourselves immersed in the uptake of a new year. Taking off to the Caribbean to spend some time together away from our laptops, reflect on the past year and take a deep breath before a busy year ahead was just what we needed.
The post Travel to St. Maarten: 18 Unusual Things to Do appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Last Updated on April 21, 2024 by Audrey Scott How can one travel safely during Covid? What Covid research and travel planning can you do manage risk while still having a fun vacation? What any additional travel safety measures should ... Continue Reading
The post Traveling Safely During Covid: Research, Planning and Managing Risk appeared first on Uncornered Market.
Here at Atlas & Boots, we’ve long had differing opinions on the virtues of train travel. Peter believes it’s the best way to see a country: slow, sustainable, ground level. In contrast, I generally find it cramped and stressful.
I like the romance of rail travel and would certainly like to do it more but, in reality, hauling a suitcase down a narrow corridor into a compartment full of strangers is not my idea of fun, nor is shared commode. The Orient Express and its ilk are a different matter of course, but they’re not exactly suited to a modest budget.
The post 7 stunning rail journeys – for a modest budget appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
From harrowing accounts of against the odds survival to charming stories of penguin encounters, we list the best books about Antarctica
The most inhospitable place on Earth naturally makes for an engrossing stage. Unsurprisingly, Antarctica’s literary canon is filled with tales of tragedy and/or survival against the elements. As such, it would be easy to fill a list like this with biographies of Amundsen, Scott and Shakleton alone.
The post 37 best books about Antarctica: updated for 2025 appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
It is said that humans can survive three minutes without air, three days without water and three weeks without food. On occasion, however, humans perform extraordinary feats of survival that far surpass these limits. Usually, they are athletes used to courting danger, but sometimes they are laymen caught in a nightmare they couldn’t predict. Below, we share 10 extraordinary outdoor survival movies based on true-life stories.
The post 10 true-life outdoor survival movies appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
The average UK person spends just 7% of their time (or 86 minutes) outdoors during the work week. This is shocking to hear, but with our busy schedules, it’s no wonder many of us can only find a few minutes each day to get outside.
The post How just 15 minutes in nature can boost your well-being appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
The journalist and podcaster Ezra Klein once described going vegan as like waking up from the Matrix. Once you are attuned to animal cruelty, you see it everywhere and cannot fathom how humans not just tolerate but endorse factory farming. Historian Yuval Noah Harari has called it one of the worst crimes in history while others have likened it to slavery.
Much of this is seen as joyless pontificating – and some of it is – but none of us can deny that animal cruelty goes hand in hand with factory farming.
The post Animal Cruelty Index: which country ranks the worst? appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
The happiest countries in the world 2022 have been ranked and for the fifth year running, Finland is the happiest country in the world
The post Ranked: happiest countries in the world 2025 appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
Having five sisters like I do is wonderful. On your travels, you get lots of messages checking on your whereabouts and wellbeing. And then you get some more messages. And then you get some more. Soon, this turns into real-time updates of hazardous activity within a 1,000-mile radius. "You're camping on a beach in Fiji? Did you hear about the couple who got killed on a beach in Thailand?" "Didn't you just leave Vanuatu? There's an earthquake there now." "You're in Chile? What about that huge volcano?"
The post 10 essentials for safe travel appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
Let’s face it: even if you’re a hardcore survivalist, a compass and map simply doesn’t cut it anymore. Whether it’s tracking your route with a hiking app, triangulating your position using a GPS device or reading by headtorch while waiting out a downpour, adventurers these days rarely leave home without at least one electronic device.
The post The best power banks for camping and hiking appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
Occasionally, when Kia and I are driving somewhere remote – the Kalahari in Namibia, say, or the Australian Outback – she will marvel at the fact that travellers used to do this with only paper maps. Unlike me, Kia grew up in inner city London and had little opportunity to venture into the outdoors. As such, she never learnt how to use a compass and map or how to build a campfire, or any number of the skills a frequent hiker should have.
The post 15 best hiking apps to download in 2025 appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
Our resident mountain aficionado and would-be seven summiteer crunches the numbers on how much it will cost to climb the seven summits
How much does it cost to climb the seven summits? About $180,000 USD give or take $10k.
Climbers could significantly reduce costs by foregoing luxuries, cutting corners and taking (even more) risks and get that figure to below $100,000. But we do not recommend this and certainly won’t be taking such unnecessary risks.
The post How much does it cost to climb the seven summits? (Updated for 2025) appeared first on Atlas & Boots.
As a country landlocked by China and India, Nepal doesn't typically prompt thoughts of islands. And yet, Tal Barahi Temple is a two-story pagoda built on an island in Pokhara, India's Phewa Lake.
The temple is dedicated to the Hindu goddess Barahi. Barahi is known in Nepal as a manifestation of Durga, a major Hindu goddess, and Amija, a group of deities representing female ancestors.
Visitors can access the island by private boat or kayak. The island offers beautiful views of the Annapurna range and World Peace Pagoda on clear days.
One of the largest malls in Japan is the Aeon Mall Okinawa Lycoming. It is home to the 100-ton Rycom aquarium in an otherwise unassuming location for marine wildlife.
This 100-ton aquarium houses fish representing the region's native marine inhabitants. More than 1,000 fish representing dozens of species are located within the aquarium, along with spineless aquatic invertebrates like sea cucumbers and stars.
The aquarium overlaps with the first-floor elevator, giving shoppers a chance to observe animals like the endangered Napoleon wrasse. Two-inch clownfish can be seen mingling with zebra sharks reaching nearly 14 feet in length, while massive moray eels swim alongside schools of damselfish and cardinalfish.
Staff from the nearby Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium care for the Rycom aquarium, ensuring the safety of endemic fish and quality of the mall facilities.
This museum dedicated to Baltimore’s industrial history is fittingly housed in an 1889 building formerly utilized for the packing of oysters, fruit, and vegetables from the Eastern Shore. By that time, canning was the city's second-largest industry. Baltimore had established itself as a major national trade and commerce hub due to its geographic location—the westernmost port on the Atlantic seaboard—and infrastructure as the site of the first American commercial railroad, which linked the Port of Baltimore with interior farmlands.
Among the many stories in the museum’s various galleries, visitors can discover the Jewish immigrant from Nazi Germany who invented that most Baltimore of flavors—Old Bay seasoning. Visitors can also learn about rise and fall of Maryland's largest employer, Bethlehem Steel, and the linotype machine, described by Thomas Edison as “the eighth wonder of the world.”
Near the end of his oft-bleak history of Appalachia, historian John Alexander Williams cites Jonesborough, Tennessee, as one possible future for the region's small towns. He specifically calls out Jonesborough as a community that successfully reinvented itself through the preservation of its historic buildings and the escalation of an annual fall festival into the National Storytelling Festival. As Williams tells it, the festival caught tailwinds from a national storytelling revival that was tied to the counterculture's 1970s shift away from politics toward spirituality and personal growth.
Over that time, the National Storytelling Festival grew from attracting a few dozen people in 1973 to more than 10,000 annually by the end of the '90s. During the festival weekend in October, circus tents are hoisted at various points in the town where people gather to hear a wide range of storytellers, including both first-time amateurs and professionals who make a living speaking at a circuit of K-12 schools, libraries, universities and other festivals. Some fans follow specific storytellers around the festival, while others pick one tent and stay there.
The festival is hosted by the International Storytelling Center, which operates during regular hours throughout the week. Although the festival is clearly the center's premier event, it hosts storytelling events throughout the year.
The International Storytelling Center features storytellers from around the world. Motoko, Maria Menzies, Bobby Norfolk and Pete Seeger are among the individuals who appear on the center's wall of storytellers, located just outside its main theater. But it takes pains to spotlight Appalachian storytellers like Sheila Kay Adams and Bil Lepp. In December, Michael Reno Harrell and Josh Goforth, both of western North Carolina, played a set of Christmas tunes interspersed with stories about their memories growing up.
“Our most popular storytellers are Appalachian, but we bring people a lot of other storytellers who tell African-American stories, or Anne Shimojima, who talks about her family's incarceration in Japanese camps in the United States,” says Angela White, a spokeswoman for the center. “There's room for everyone on that spectrum of storytelling, so we have the stereotypical Appalachian, but we also have a little bit of everything else.”
The center largely is dedicated to venue space for events, but also is worth visiting for its storytelling wall, a collage of images and quotations from the many storytellers who have visited Jonesborough. The gift shop also carries an array of books, T-shirts and other items based around storytelling in Appalachia and beyond. The center is located in Jonesborough's historic district, which includes numerous other buildings of note, including the Chester Inn State Historic Site and Museum next door.
Ubasute is an infamous motif in Japanese folklore, which can be roughly translated to "elderly dumping." Though no historical records back up the claim, the custom of senicide—leaving old people in the mountains to die so that there would be less mouths to feed in the village—is a well-established concept in Japanese legends.
A major example of a purported site of ubasute tradition can be found in the village of Yamaguchi-Tsuchibuchi in Tōno, Iwate Prefecture, a city famed for its associations with folklorist Kunio Yanagita, the author of The Legends of Tōno.
Locally known as Denderano (or Rendaino as recorded by Yanagita), the field is a somewhat remote site located on a hill between villages. This is said to have been the place where the villagers of Yamaguchi-Tsuchibuchi brought their parents once they turned the age of sixty, leaving them to die. They did not, of course, die instantly. Yanagita reports that they would come down to the village in the morning to work on the farms and go back up onto the Denderano after dark.
The site is shrouded in mystery, with the etymology of the toponym uncertain and the veracity of the claim unconfirmed, but local folklore also suggests that the area was once believed to be a sort of gateway between the mundane realm and the netherworld.
Today, the city of Tōno and its villages welcome tourists following the footsteps of Yanagita and his tales. There is are reliefs of ubasute scenes adorning the bridge that leads to the Denderano field and a rustic hut has been built on the site.
On the grounds of Oklahoma City's Myriad Botanical Gardens stands the unique architecture of the Inasmuch Foundation Crystal Bridge Conservatory. The large cylinder, which was built from 1983 to 1985, is 70 feet in diameter and 224 feet long. It was opened to the public in 1988.
The cylinder houses the tropical plants for the Myriad Botanical Garden. It has three levels with plants and trees of all types displayed. A sky bridge extends from the top levels, providing spectacular overhead views of the entire garden.
A working waterfall occupies the south end of the cylinder. Also on the south end on the second level is an interactive Discovery Room for children. The north end has a small reflecting pool and classrooms. The Oculus Gallery on the north end features a large circular window that overlooks the park to the north of the Crystal Bridge.
The Myriad Botanical Gardens takes up an entire city block and, in addition to the Crystal Bridge, also contains a park, a children's playground, a dog park, a fountain, a small lake, and an amphitheater.
Appalachia has provided cultural riches to the world, but its greatest achievement may be string-band music, particularly old-time and bluegrass. In essence, it's Appalachia's core story: immigrants move and bring their culture into the mountains, and become part of the greater whole. Appalachian string-band music combines African-rooted banjo, fiddle and ballads from Scotland, England and Ireland, and numerous other musical strains to make something new that couldn't have originated anywhere else.
Perhaps the best thing about mountain string music is that it's populist, taught in after-school programs across the region and regularly played by people across all walks of life. Come to Floyd's Friday Night Jamboree and you'll see. The Floyd Country Store hosts the weekly jam that's been carrying on for more than 40 years. Each week, bands perform a gospel set and then a dance set, during which the store's hardwood floors become an exceptionally welcoming dance floor. Most weeks during the year, amateur bands set up and play on the street outside the store, drawing their own crowds and dancers. Friday nights in Floyd are packed with string bands playing inside the country store and outside, as people mill around and enjoy all the music in the air.
The Floyd Country Store operates a regular schedule aside from the Friday night jamboree. It hosts honky-tonk bands on Thursdays, Americana groups on Saturday afternoons, and an open Sunday music jam with set times for beginners, old-time and bluegrass sessions. Aside from its live music, the country store sells clothes, musical instruments, toys and more. The store also operates a restaurant that serves a menu of sandwiches, soups, and salads sourced from local farms. There's also an attached soda fountain with locally sourced ice cream and drinks.
The Floyd Country Store is the primary destination in the small, one-stoplight town of Floyd, but a number of local stores and other restaurants are within walking distance. The town also is home to a three-story former schoolhouse that now sells fabric and sewing supplies, a distillery based around the county's moonshine-running heritage, and an award-winning local coffee roaster that supplies customers through the Mid-Atlantic region.
The smallest village in the Grand Duchy, Rindschleiden is well known to Luxembourgers. This reputation is confirmed by the national register: The village's last inhabitant (the priest) passed away in 2016. The village has only four buildings: the church, the presbytery, the old school, and a farmhouse that houses the Thillenvogtei Rural Museum.
The church of St Willibrord seems to be out of proportion for such a small village. The explanation is historical: In the park behind the church is a spring that St Willibrord is said to have gushed out with his crook. A pilgrimage to the spring used to be organised every Whit Sunday by the surrounding parishes. The church was gradually enlarged as a result. The church's choir dates from the 15th century, the nave from the 16th.
In 1952, during a restoration campaign, mural paintings were discovered on the ceilings of the choir and nave. A total surface area of 170m² was uncovered. This is the largest collection of Gothic paintings preserved in the Grand Duchy. They probably date from the same period as the church: 15th century for the choir and 16th century for the nave.
From the entrance to the choir, the murals depict biblical scenes in the first bay, saints in the second, and especially the Evangelists in the choir. This remarkable ensemble has earned the church the nickname "the little Sistine Chapel of Luxembourg." It makes the "smallest village of Luxembourg" one of the must-see places in the region.
Picking up a trinket or two as a souvenir while on vacation is a common practice. What's less common, however, is buying an alligator while on a trip—and then intentionally leaving it behind on an overnight stop. That, however, is the unique lore of The Jefferson Hotel.
The Jefferson Hotel was opened in 1895 by Lewis Ginter. It has since appeared on many illustrious lists, including The National Registry of Historic Places and Hotels of America. The Jefferson has catered to a plethora of world leaders, including no less than 13 U.S. Presidents. It is also entertained a number of celebrities from Charlie Chaplin to James Brown.
The hotel's formation coincided with the rise of automotive travel for the purposes of vacationing. Conveniently situated in Richmond, Virginia, halfway between New York and Florida, The Jefferson Hotel allowed for an overnight stay on the long journey home. Many guests who had visited the Sunshine State and purchased an alligator had begun to question their decision by the time they reached The Jefferson, often leaving their scaly acquisitions behind. The bewildered staff would regularly deposit these creatures into the marble pools of the hotel's Palm Court.
There are fabled stories of misguided crocs wandering into various rooms and giving unsuspecting visitors a fearsome fright. Once the gators had amassed to an uncontrollable size, they were donated to various zoos. The last of these creatures nicknamed 'Old Pompey' remained at the hotel until 1948.
Today, one can find fanciful references to these creatures throughout the hotel.
AO Wants to Know is an ongoing interview series where we ask experts in extraordinary subjects to share their knowledge with us.
I’ve always thought of stage magic as something that happens in person, but magician Siegfried Tieber showed me that it can even be performed over Zoom. During our video call, he folded a $1 bill in his hand and a $5 bill underneath his wallet, which sat on the table in front of him.
If we were in person, Tieber explained, both bills would have been in my hands. “At this point, I would ask you to hold on to these two bills for dear life,” he said. “They will never leave your sight. They are right there in front of you the whole time.” I followed Tieber’s modified instructions and did not take my eyes off the two bills. And somehow, they switched places right in front of me. Weeks later, I still have no idea how Tieber achieved what he calls his “all-time favorite sleight-of-hand illusion.”
Sleight-of-hand magic tricks are performed by skillfully manipulating ordinary objects with one’s hands. “You and I know that, sadly, I don’t have real magic powers like Harry Potter,” said Tieber. “So it has to be some kind of technique and optical illusion that I’m creating. That is the essence of sleight-of-hand magic: using often simple props and creating the illusion of something impossible.” Besides sleight-of-hand, Tieber also performs mentalism, which “relies on creating the illusion of reading minds and predicting future events,” he explained. Tieber contrasts his specialties with “stage illusion,” larger-scale David Copperfield–style spectacles that may rely on trick props or hidden doors.
Whatever form it takes, all magic has the goal of instilling observers with a sense of wonder. “That is where magic comes to life, when it’s performed in front of an audience,” said Tieber. Now based in Los Angeles, Tieber grew up in Ecuador and got into magic while pursuing a degree in mechanical engineering. It was the reaction of amazement when he performed his first trick for his family that made him realize magic was his true passion. After earning his degree, Tieber said, “I told my parents I wanted to do magic for a living, and since then, that’s what I’ve been doing with my life.”
During his more than 20 years practicing stage magic, Tieber has performed in various different venues, including two appearances on famed magic duo Penn and Teller’s show Penn & Teller: Fool Us (he fooled the hosts once). Tieber spoke with Atlas Obscura about the special relationship between magician and audience and the real reason magicians don’t reveal their tricks.
How did you first get into magic?
When I was 18, someone, for no reason whatsoever, lent me a book on card tricks: 1,001 Easy Card Tricks. I read it cover to cover. One thousand out of 1,001 of those were not good. However, there was this one trick that I absolutely loved. I practiced and practiced for many weeks on end, without ever showing it to anybody.
Then, one glorious Sunday afternoon, I gathered my family in the living room. At this point, I was so familiar with this one trick that it wasn’t that exciting to me anymore, right? But I showed the trick to them. They freaked out. I freaked out at their freaking out, and I was hooked.
Are there programs or schools that teach stage magic?
In magic, there is very, very little formal training. You learn from books and mentors, and by experience. Personally, because of my interest in magic, I did a two-year program for stage and screen acting, [to learn] how to develop a character, stand on a stage, and enunciate my words.
If anything, the closest thing to formal training that you can have for magic is to train as an actor, because it gives you many of the necessary tools. The tricks and techniques you learn from a book, and then you practice a lot in front of a mirror. But learning how to communicate with an audience? That’s acting training.
How do you invent your own magic tricks?
Like with any other art form, there are certain fundamental techniques, and once you have learned the fundamentals, you can take those principles and create what’s yours. Sometimes you take an existing trick or illusion—something you learned from a book or a mentor—and put a spin on that. And sometimes by mere chance and serendipity, you stumble upon a principle that you might be able to use.
Magic is peculiar in the sense that we magicians are very, very limited by the technical aspects, in ways that other art forms are not. If you’re a skillful writer, there’s nothing that you cannot create on paper to paint a picture in the mind. But as a magician, I can have the greatest idea ever, that might be the perfect illusion for the show that I want to create. But now, I have to figure out how to create the illusion.
How often do magicians develop new acts or pick up new skills?
There are absolutely some performers who develop an act and do that act for most of their career. It’s reminiscent of the early 20th-century vaudeville shows, when people would buy a ticket to see 20 or 30 different acts in the theater, and each was just three or four minutes long. Way back then, when you were performing on the vaudeville circuits, you would put your heart and soul into developing four minutes, and you would do it over and over in different towns.
What I usually do is develop a show and play with that show for maybe four or five years. I do it a few hundred times in front of live audiences, and then I develop something new. And that’s partly because of my personality. I enjoy the process very, very much. It’s challenging, but it’s very fun.
Do you get nervous trying new tricks on a live audience for the first time?
Even after 20 years of doing this, still, the first few times, it’s nerve-wracking. Once I do something a few hundred times, I know the beats, I know what could possibly go wrong. And if something goes wrong—because in live theater, things will go wrong—I know how to fix it and take a different route. So there’s reassurance once I’m comfortable and confident in the trick. In the worst-case scenario, if the trick fails miserably, I admit defeat, [and say], “You know what? That didn’t go well. Let me show you something different.”
How much truth is there in the saying that magicians don’t reveal their secrets?
A lot of truth! Big time, big time. That’s a very, very important principle of magic. There is a well-known American magician, Jim Steinmeyer, who would say that “magicians guard an empty safe.” It’s empty because our secrets, more often than not, are confoundingly simple.
If I don’t tell you how something is done, I hope that for the next few days, maybe even weeks or months, you'll be thinking about this thing, wondering “How did he do that?” But if I tell you, [you’ll think], Oh, it’s easy!” We magicians do not reveal our secrets for the audience’s benefit, not for our own. Of course, I want to keep working, I want people to hire me. But it’s mainly for your benefit.
What was your experience like being on Penn and Teller’s show?
The first time, that was one of the most thrilling, exciting, terrifying moments of my life. Ever since I got interested in magic, Penn and Teller have been two of my heroes. So just the fact of being invited to perform on that stage was an honor.
I thought there was zero chance of me fooling them, because the trick that I did was my interpretation of a classic card magic trick. It had my spin, but it’s a classic piece of magic that I know Penn and Teller are familiar with. But maybe I was able to disguise it, and my interpretation of this piece of magic looked so different from the original that they didn’t trace the connection. [Tieber fooled Penn and Teller on his first appearance.]
So—spoiler alert—on my second appearance, I didn’t fool them. However, a few days after my episode was recorded, I get an email from Penn Jillette, and he tells me, “Hey Siegfried, so nice to have you on the show again. Thank you for coming. You know what? Since you came, Teller and I have been thinking about your trick and, if we have your blessing, we would love to do our interpretation of the trick in our live show. Would you be willing to sell us the rights to do that trick on our stage?”
And my answer was, “You’re my heroes. Do whatever the hell you want with that trick!” And I'm so glad that I did. I could have made a good chunk of change if I had sold them the rights, but I told them, “No, you don't owe me a penny. You have given me so much. It’s amazing that now I can do a little something for you.” They have been doing their interpretation of my trick in their show in Vegas for a few years now. And in my mind, that is much more exciting than a trophy.
Is that common in the field, that one magician might buy the rights or ask permission to perform another’s trick?
It does happen, in many different ways. And sadly, it also happens that a magician sees something on the stage and says, “Oh, that is a good trick, and I understand the mechanics behind it. I will do that trick on stage.” It would be like a stand-up comedian sitting in an audience, hearing a joke, and doing the same joke the next night at his gig. But most magicians are very respectful of other people’s work and intellectual property.
If I publish a book with my magic tricks, that’s implicitly giving you permission to do them, because I put my ideas in print and I sold you that for money. But [with performance], there’s a very strong unspoken code of conduct. I know that if I steal material, I’m also opening the floodgates for people to steal from me.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to learn magic?
Be curious and search. Nowadays, because we all have access to the internet, it’s much, much easier. You can learn a lot of decent magic from YouTube. And chances are, if this person is interested, they will go down the rabbit hole and discover that you can also learn magic from books. There are stores, both physical and online, that sell very specialized books that you would not find in a public library, that assume the reader has some previous knowledge and experience. And the secrets contained in those books are the good secrets—not only how the trick is done, but the psychology and philosophy of magic.
Magic, like anything worth doing in life, takes time and patience and dedication, but I deeply believe that anyone can become a magician. You don’t need talent, you don’t need long fingers or large hands; you just need to be excited about the thing! I think that magic is a very generous art form. You need to put a lot into it, but it can give you a lot back in return. In that sense, it’s a very lovely way to spend your time and focus your attention.
This interview has been edited and condensed for length and clarity.
At the corner of Chestnut Street and 2nd Street, there's a tiny park featuring a gazebo and a heartwarming tribute to a tremendously successful NFL running back.
Saquon Barkley grew up within walking distance of the boulder-affixed plaque honoring him. Barkley played for Whitehall High School before going on to star at Penn State University. He then played in the National Football League for the New York Giants and the Philadelphia Eagles, with whom he won the Super Bowl in 2025.
This plaque is a reminder that a small town kid can make it big.
Since 16th century Turkey, this covered market has been bustling with vendors and eager customers. Built in 1519, Kirkkasik Bedestenb can be considered a small version of the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. Also known as White Bazaar, Kirkkasik Bedesten is a rectangular building with seven domes on its roof. Inside, it has 21 rooms that serve as shops.
The building was renovated in the 1960s and 2000s, and is now open to the public. Today, Bedesten is one of the few remaining examples of medieval Turkish architecture in Tarsus. Visitors can still find a variety of shops and cafes serving local Tarsusi coffee in the bedesten.
A Lord Shiva temple in the Pashan area of Pune, Maharashtra stands within a walled, fort-like complex. At the center of the complex, one can see the grand Someshwar Temple, which is thought to be 900 years old. It is believed that the Shiv Linga (sacred symbol) in this temple is ‘Swayambhu,’ which means 'self-existing.' Some say that Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj used to visit this temple along with his mother Rajmata Jijabai in the 17th century.
Next to the Lord Shiva temple built in Hemadpanthi architectural style, there are temples of Lord Ganesh, Lord Hanuman, and Lord Bhairavnath, along with a memorial stone and a 40-foot tall ‘Deep Stambh’ (lamp pillar).
The complex also features an open-air gallery showcasing replica models of all twelve Jyotirlingas. The twelve Jyotirlingas are temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and are located across India. The replica gallery is well-designed and displays a mural of the Himalayas at the entrance. The models are intricate and beautiful, depicting temples that hold immense significance in Hinduism.
Along the sun-dappled hills of Sonoma County, where salt air from the Pacific breezes through rolling vineyards and the soil sings with centuries of winemaking history, great wine waits to be made. And at Decoy, a winery known for its distinguished portfolio of California wines, that terroir combines with a deep level of craftsmanship, to make for accessible but elegant bottles that burst with the delicious traces of California’s land.
Decoy has become an iconic brand thanks to the great wine inside each bottle, but it’s also instantly recognizable thanks to the duck that sits proudly atop its label—and gives the brand its name. This charming mallard floats stately and serene on a white background, with a jaunty air: just below his tucked wing is a flash of dazzling green, which seems to hint at a playful element to these well-designed wines. Look closely, and you’ll see this duck is, yes, a decoy: a carved wooden animal meant to lure in the real deal. Hunters have been using decoys to attract ducks since the time of the ancient Egyptians, making the practice just a few thousand years newer than that of winemaking. But there are still many parallels between the craft of decoy carving and the craft of winemaking; both celebrate the land and its abundance. They also make a particularly harmonious pair when you consider that duck has been a particularly popular stalwart on California tables, pairing well with local Cabernets and Pinots. And at Decoy, just as these wines offer unexpected depth and verve—providing that aha! moment past their initial impressions—so too does this decoy play with expectations.
The duck on the label has a real-life counterpart, which still lives in a display case in the Duckhorn Vineyards Estate House in St. Helena, California. The story goes that Dan Duckhorn, who founded Duckhorn Vineyards in 1976 and began making Decoy Wines in 1985, was a serious collector of decoys. So when Duckhorn decided to call this new line of wines “Decoy”—for the way that they might lure in drinkers with their accessible but elegant, well-designed blends—he knew he needed a duck on the label. Just as a carved wooden duck carries the barely-perceptible, but still present, trace of the smooth hand of its maker, honed over decades of practice, so too does winemaking rely on deep knowledge of process and land.
Winemaking, like art, rewards the trailblazing, and even on a visual level, this first label was a bold move: at the time, most wines simply held the names of their winemakers on the label, maybe with a flashy font or a dramatic color. But from its earliest years, Decoy has been playing by its own rules, and to great success. The duck has remained on the label, and craftsmanship has remained central to the wines that the label announces.
Decoy began with a single red blend in 1985. Dan Duckhorn wanted to make a wine with an accessible price point but high quality, and so he used grapes grown for his main-label vintages, blending them into something he lovingly referred to as a “Tuesday night wine”. (Who doesn’t need a great bottle of wine on a Tuesday night?) Just as the original Decoy label has been refined to reflect a more modern style, Decoy has expanded to include a diverse array of varietals. Perhaps the most well-known is their Cabernet Sauvignon, which drinkers appreciate for its complex and structured fruit profile. But the brand also makes a soft, lightly herbal Pinot Noir; a vibrant and tropical fruit-forward Sauvignon Blanc; and that California classic, Chardonnay, which is silky and delicately balanced. All of these reflect the soil and the winds of California: Decoy works exclusively with grapes grown along the California coastline, where cooler temperatures, steep hillsides, coastal soil, and foggy mornings make for a unique growing environment.
For a great wine, you need great grapes, and at the heart of Decoy's philosophy is a profound respect for Sonoma County's diverse terroirs. Decoy uses grapes from a mix of Estate vineyards and top grower vineyards. This means that they grow some of their own grapes on the rolling, sun-dappled vineyards that they own, and they buy some grapes from other top-tier growers in the area. This allows the brand to invest in their own viticulture, while also benefiting from the great brain trust of growers in the area. It also means that they can work with people who specialize in particular grape varietals, like Chardonnay and Zinfandel. The brand's estate vineyards—Ridgeline and Brownell—are prime examples of this commitment to California’s grapes. Ridgeline, perched on the slopes of Oak Mountain in Alexander Valley, offers steep elevations and rocky soils that yield exceptional Bordeaux-style varietals. In contrast, Brownell Vineyard, located on the valley floor, benefits from ancient gravel and sand alluvial soils, which among other things produce the brand’s renowned Cabernet Sauvignon.
While the grapes are the most important factor in the winemaking process, they’re just the beginning. Just as carving a decoy requires picking the right wood before meticulously carving and painting that wood in order to successfully lure live ducks, a great wine must be made with meticulous care. At Decoy, the winemakers ferment each grape varietal individually, rather than batch-fermenting all grapes that will be used for a single blend, which means that they can calibrate the flavor of each aspect of a wine, before bringing those aspects together in harmony for the final bottle. Often, the smoothest wines are those that have been made in the most meticulous, thoughtful ways.
Across the decades, Decoy has found new ways to refine its commitment to craftsmanship. In 2007, the brand was looking to redesign their label, and wanted to find an updated decoy image that spoke to the sophistication of the growing portfolio as well as the folk art traditions of the area. They hired local artist Michael Allard, and for their cover model, they looked in-house. Two of Dan Duckhorn’s most prized possessions were a pair of carved wooden pintails that he’d acquired in the late ‘90s. These had been carved by Richard “Fresh Air Dick” Janson, a local legend who had carved decoys in the early half of the 20th century aboard a rundown boat moored in the marshes of Sonoma Creek—just 25 miles from St. Helena as the duck flies. Janson worked for many years as a ship’s carpenter, and retired early to live on his boat and carve; among decoy collectors, his name is revered as one of the form’s greatest artists. They say that he carved his ducks each day with a small hatchet as his hand-cranked phonograph played. While today, most decoys are factory-made, his decoys were patiently carved out of the region’s redwood with hand tools, and those that remain are now smoothed by a century of age. The grain of the wood is still visible under the careful brushstrokes that transformed the inert sculpture into something lifelike. So the image that now announces the Decoy brand speaks to the Californian legacy of craft, hard work, and respect for the land.
Dear Atlas is Atlas Obscura’s travel advice column, answering the questions you won’t find in traditional guidebooks. Have a question for our experts? Submit it here.
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Dear Atlas,
I’m traveling to Paris with my partner. They want to check out the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower, of course, since it’s their first time, but I’ve already seen them. Are there any lesser-known gems or semi-secret spots either inside or near the big attractions what we can check out?
Paris is full of breathtaking attractions and museums that people gloss over in the name of the big hits like the D’Orsay, Eiffel Tower, Versailles, Catacombs, and Louvre. Those places are astonishing and shouldn’t be missed, but Paris is an ancient city full of lots of parks, museums, monuments, and all sorts of attractions that deserve just as much love and attention as the big guys. There is no shortage of options for you and your partner.
I’ve been visiting the city for over 15 years and even lived there briefly to live out my “American writer in Paris” fantasies. It is absolutely one of my favorite places to be on the planet. Here are some incredible lesser known attractions that I think are worth taking the time to see:
While not super “off the beaten path,” the Musée de Cluny sees a fraction of the crowds the other big museums do. Inside this extensive collection of medieval art is housed in the 15th-century home of the Abbey de Cluny, you’ll find a ton of impressive tapestries (including the iconic Lady and the Unicorn), armor, and paintings. While you’re there, check out Gallo-Roman Thermes de Cluny, the ruins of an ancient Roman bathhouse.
Located in the Marais, Musée des Archives Nationales is housed in an old aristocratic mansion that dates back to 1371. The archives were established by Napoleon and here you can enjoy a tour of some of the preserved baroque rooms that were used by the Soubise family that lived there, rotating history and art exhibits, and a beautiful courtyard and garden. It’s free to visit too!
For something smaller, check out the Gustave Moreau Museum, which is dedicated to the paintings of 19th-century Symbolist Gustave Moreau. Located in the 9th arrondissement, this oft-overlooked museum in a beautiful old mansion is well-worth the quick detour.
Or perhaps you might want to check out the Musée Édith Piaf, dedicated to arguably the most famous French singer from the 1930s to the 1960s, and known around the world for her songs La Vie En Rose and Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien. She lived in a little apartment in the Ménilmontant district at the start of her career, which has been turned into a tiny museum dedicated to her. You get a glimpse at her life through her gold and platinum records, photographs, clothing, letters from fans, posters, recordings, and sheet music.
If you need a break from the museums, stroll down the Promenade Plantée, an elevated, tree-lined walkway that extends roughly three miles along the old Vincennes railway line. The railway line stopped being used 1969 and the city turned it into an above ground park a couple decades later. You'll find lots of trees, flowers, ponds, and places to sit along this long path that stretches from Bastille to the edge of Paris. Even on a nice day, it's almost never crowded. As a bonus, it cuts through the less touristy parts of the city.
Finally, lovers of the written word should head to the Bibliothèque Nationale de France. The collection is massive at over 40 million items, including some 15 million books and over 5,000 manuscripts from ancient Greece. It’s easily one of the grandest libraries in the world, as well as one of the oldest. Historians can trace its roots loosely back to a library founded in 1368 by Charles V. The Richelieu branch sprawls over a whole city block in a lavishly decorated building that would look right at home in Versailles. Be sure to take a peek at the old rotunda of the art library and the 20-foot globes in the permanent collection.
There’s a seemingly endless amount of small museums, quirky attractions, hidden parks, and cool tours you can do in Paris. It would take dozens of visits to see them all but I think if you started with these, you’d get a glimpse of the city that most tourists don’t end up seeing.
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Matthew Kepnes didn’t take his first trip overseas until he was 23. In 2005, he took a trip to Thailand that inspired him to come home, quit his job, and backpack around the world for a year. That trip ended up lasting 18 months. In 2008, he started his website, Nomadic Matt, to help others travel better, cheaper, and longer and has helped millions of people a year realize their own travel dreams. His new book, How to Travel the World on $75 a Day, helps people have incredible travel experiences on a budget. When he isn’t traveling, he resides in Austin and New York City. He can be found at his website as well as on Instagram at @nomadicmatt.
AO Wants to Know is an ongoing interview series where we ask experts in extraordinary subjects to share their knowledge with us.
The inability to notice plants as living parts of the environment is an unfortunately common state of mind that botanists call “plant blindness.” “People just see plants as green,” says plant toxicologist Liz Dauncey. In their minds, plants “don’t do anything. They just sit around. They’re boring.”
Dauncey considers part of her work to be “chipping away at that plant blindness one person at a time.” For botanists, plants are not just a backdrop: They’re every bit as engaging and exciting as animals. Like animals, plants are locked in a constant battle to survive and reproduce. And like animals, some plants are armed with formidable defenses. This doesn’t mean we can’t appreciate them, but it may require some extra caution, thanks to what Dauncey calls an “absolutely remarkable set of compounds”: plant toxins.
Dauncey’s work on poisonous plants began in 1992, when she was enlisted by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, in London and the local branch of the U.K.’s National Poisons Information Service to help develop a manual for poisoning treatment centers. In the 1990s, Dauncey explains, “We didn’t have the internet like we do now. People were reliant on a few books that they might have in the hospital. You couldn’t just Google a plant image or something and get an identification. So we were trying to fill a gap.”
From there, Dauncey got involved in other projects to help reduce poisoning incidents and keep people informed. Another information gap was a lack of warnings for toxic garden plants. “If you bought bleach, for example, it would have a warning on it,” says Dauncey. “But you could go into a garden center and pick up a quite poisonous plant, and not have any warning.” With the U.K. Horticultural Trades Association, she helped develop a downloadable system of warning labels, now in widespread use. Dauncey has also authored books including Plants That Kill, a guide to the world’s deadliest flora, with coauthor Sonny Larsson in 2018.
Dauncey spoke with Atlas Obscura about her work on improving public safety knowledge and what people ought to realize about poisonous plants.
What are some of the most common ways that plant poisons work?
They quite often affect your gastrointestinal system. Initially, they’ll make you sick. There’ll be nausea, vomiting, pain, and diarrhea, because your body will just try and get rid of it as quickly as it can. If it gets into the bloodstream, then it can affect the heart, either speed it up, slow it down, or make it become irregular. A lot of things affect the nervous system. They can give you seizures or paralysis, or bring on confusion or visual hallucinations.
Cyanide affects every cell in your body that it comes into contact with, such as in the digestive system. It stops the mitochondria from working, so you no longer have oxygen available in your cell. [Where toxins are] destroying the liver cells or the kidneys, those tend to be the long-acting things; you need multiple exposures for those.
This is probably hard to quantify, but, is there a plant that is considered the most poisonous?
That’s an intellectual rabbit hole! I know some people will answer that, but I would say it really depends on so many factors. If you want speed of death [as a factor], that just depends on the amount that you take. We all know from the whodunits that cyanide can kill you quite quickly. And all the things that we use as arrow poisons [Strychnos and Strophanthus species, and many more], they kill pretty quickly, because you’re getting it directly into the bloodstream.
There are a lot of plants that are much more poisonous if they’re injected directly into the bloodstream than if they’re eaten. Castor beans—if you chew them, you can be poisoned, but it’s very rarely fatal, especially if you get treatment. If you inject [the toxin] into the bloodstream, it’s not good. But that’s such an unusual route of exposure.
What are some of the most dangerous plants that people regularly come in contact with?
In the U.K., the most common is probably foxglove. It’s in a lot of people’s gardens. And we’ve got quite a few [toxic] houseplants in the arum family [Araceae] that you might know, such as dumb cane (Dieffenbachia), peace lily (Spathiphyllum), and Alocasia or Colocasia [elephant ear]. People might not realize that the sap from Euphorbias is potentially quite caustic. It’s a chemical irritant, and it’s particularly nasty if you get the sap in your eyes.
They’re the most common in the garden and house, but around the world, it will vary. In warmer countries, they’ll be growing oleanders and things like that.
What do regulations around poisonous plants look like in the U.K.? Is there a point at which a plant is considered too dangerous to be sold as a garden plant?
The only plants they regulate are the potentially invasive ones, and that’s quite a small list. The only way that poisonous plants are regulated in the U.K. is if you want to use them medicinally. Our Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency has got a list of plants that can only be dispensed by a qualified pharmacist. But you can grow anything, except for a few not allowed ones, like cannabis or coca. You can grow opium poppy, but you could be prosecuted for extracting the latex [juice].
Besides ingestion of the plant, what are some ways that plants can poison people that might be less obvious?
I mentioned skin, the chemical irritants, but there’s also phototoxic reactions. If you get the sap of giant hogweed on your skin, and you expose the skin to bright UV light, you get blistering, which can last for a couple of weeks. And that patch of skin can be sensitive to sunlight for six months or more.
But I suppose the oddest and most unusual way is inhalation. There is a published case report of a family in India that was poisoned by inhaling smoke from burning oleander in an open fire in their dwelling. The mother was the most seriously affected because she was tending the fire and cooking, but it produced the cardiac symptoms that you would expect from ingesting oleander [an irregular heartbeat]. And in the U.K., we’ve had a couple of anecdotal reports of inhalation of cyanide from people who have pruned a cherry laurel hedge. If you take the prunings into your garage and shred them, and you’re in a confined space, it releases cyanide. But the gas has to be concentrated for that route of exposure.
There was a case where [the person] had bagged up their cherry laurel clippings and popped them into the car, and then they’d gone and had a cup of tea or something. And when they were driving to dispose of the clippings at the local council site, they became dizzy. It was [only] a mild poisoning, but an unusual route.
What should a person do if they suspect that they’ve been poisoned by a plant?
If you have come into contact with a potentially harmful plant, you should wash the area immediately with warm, soapy water and keep it out of direct sunlight. And if you think you’ve ingested something poisonous, don’t make yourself sick. You can have a little drink of water or even milk, or if you’ve got an irritated throat, you can have a little bit of vanilla ice cream. And then, if you are [still] concerned, seek medical attention.
Are there a lot of common misconceptions about poisonous plants?
I don’t like to generalize about what people think, but the media has certain misconceptions, and perhaps people get their information from there. When people overestimate the toxicity of something, it’s almost like the plant is a problem just for existing. They forget that in order to be poisoned, you have to interact in some way.
If I look at a specific case, about 10 years or so ago, there was a gardener who died, unfortunately. His family went around the garden that he’d been working in, and there was Aconitum growing there. Aconitum is monkshood or wolfsbane. They looked it up and found that Aconitum was poisonous, and that was put forward as a cause of death.
With the inquest [for the death], it was shown that it was highly unlikely that it was the Aconitum. The man had hardly touched it that day, and it’s not poisonous to that degree. But people still think that Aconitum is very poisonous if you touch it. If you strip the leaves, you can absorb enough toxin through your hands to be dizzy, you may get palpitations; but that’s it, and that is someone who’s handling it a lot. I garden with Aconitum, and it’s not a problem. The simple rule is, if you’re going to be handling a lot of plant material and getting sap on your hands, wear gloves, and then it’s perfectly fine.
Why do some poisonous plants become really infamous for being dangerous, while others remain under the radar?
I think it’s because of the stories that go along with them that a few of these plants become notorious. People would have got it in the past from say, Shakespeare; he had a lot of plants in his plays. And I’m sure Homer did as well. Nowadays people get the stories from things like Harry Potter. He’s introduced people to wolfsbane and mandrake. Teen Wolf also had wolfsbane featured in it quite prominently. I have to say that they were using a yellow Delphinium sometimes, and not a wolfsbane, but, you know, that’s a hazard of being a botanist watching these things.
This interview has been edited and condensed for length and clarity.
“Bergen train robbed in the night!” The newspaper headline was dramatic, and the story equally so: As travelers in jubilant vacation moods were enjoying their journey across the mountains, a group of students descended on the train and robbed it, before making their getaway on skis. The paper was inundated with calls from people who’d missed a small but vital little box, stating, “Price: 2 kroner, Gyldendal.” It was an ad for a book from a major publisher.
The PR stunt to launch the novel, Bergenstoget plyndret inat!, has gone down in Norwegian history as the moment that sparked a beloved national phenomenon: During the Easter holiday, we all read and watch crime stories.
The fake headline ran in Aftenposten and other Oslo papers on Saturday, March 24, 1923, just days before that year’s Easter break, a national five-day weekend in Norway when people like to tuck into a paperback. Within days, more than 7,000 copies of Bergenstoget plyndret inat! had been sold. Adding to the intrigue was the fact that in the book, the heist happened on April Fools’ Day in 1923, which was only days away. Was it actually going to happen? People were agog, and the young publisher who came up with the stunt, Harald Grieg, realized he’d hit on something big—the next year, he pushed more crime novels for Easter. Other publishers followed suit, and soon radio and TV were all aboard with crime season.
Påskekrim—pronounced “poh-ska-krihm,” literally “Easter crime”—is the cultural phenomenon of reading and watching crime stories around Easter. It’s such a natural part of the spring holiday that until I left Norway at age 19, I assumed it was universal, like Easter eggs. But Norway stands alone with its hunger for crime at Easter.
The seasonal ritual for many Norwegians is the same: a five-day break where you can pack a rucksack with hot dogs, chicken-shaped marzipan, and Kvikk Lunsj, a Kit Kat–esque chocolate bar. Then it’s time to gather up friends and family, drive into the woods, strap on some skis, and strike out across the white landscape. If you’re lucky, you’ll be staying at an old cabin—there will be no electricity or running water, the crockery and bedding will be whatever your grandparents brought there in the ’70s, and no one has updated the Donald Duck & Co comics since the ’90s. This is the scene for hunkering down with your crime novel and reading by candlelight while the forest outside is the blackest black and no one can hear you scream. But you feel completely safe—at least until you have to go to the outhouse.
Norwegian crime writer Alex Dahl spent her childhood Easters in the mountains too, although her accommodations—at Høyfjellshotell in Rondane National Park—at least had plumbing. “We did the Påskekrim thing for sure, and went cross-country skiing high up in the mountains,” she tells me over a video call from Sandefjord. Dahl has published six crime novels, including Playdate, which has been adapted into a Disney+ series called The Stolen Girl, just out this week. “I think a lot of Norwegians have very similar memories of Easter, because everybody does the same stuff: the oranges in the backpack, the marzipan, the Solo [orange soda], and a book.”
Today, the Påskekrim tradition is guaranteed to send Norwegians into a bookshop. In the week before Easter 2024, 46 percent of adult books sold were crime novels, according to the Norwegian Booksellers Association. But the characters responsible for the initial hoax had no idea the effect they’d have on the publishing industry at large: Harald Grieg and the ghostwriters of the book—his brother, Nordahl, and Nils Lie—were likely looking for a fun way to make some quick cash. “I don’t think they realized how impactful the marketing would be,” Siren Marøy Myklebust, an acquiring editor at Gyldendal publishing house, wrote in an email.* “But crime and Easter go well together, because we have public holidays with low expectations and lots of time.”
“Many crime novels are released for Easter, with lots of attention from bookshops and the press,” added Marøy Myklebust. The annual Krimfestivalen, timed to Easter, is a three-day book festival that celebrates local crime writers such as Jo Nesbø, Anne Holt, Thomas Enger, Jørn Lier Horst, Karin Fossum, and Gunnar Staalesen. This is also when Rivertonprisen, a prestigious crime writing award, is awarded; Eva Fretheim has just been declared this year’s winner for her “subdued psychological” novel, The Bird King.
But while the origin story helps explain Påskekrim, does it really make sense for this extremely peaceful country to be so keen on crime? There’s only about 30 murders per year in the entire country, and they are mostly solved. But if you read Nordic noir, you’d think every sleepy village hides a gruesome scene. “We have this incredibly peaceful society, so I wonder, from that vantage point, maybe it feels more bearable to go to the dark side?” Dahl suggests. “Because it’s not something we're routinely faced with.”
Norway is also marked by long, dark winters, and vast landscapes devoid of people: “There may be a collective sense of a dark loneliness, as found in the literal nature,” Dahl adds. An oft-ignored trait of Norway, a steady presence in the Top 10 happiest countries in the world, is also how it can sometimes feel claustrophobic: “It’s a society that has fairly strict moral normative control,” says Dahl. “It can be quite structured in terms of who you can be. I think there’s a rebellion in people against that kind of thing.”
Dahl’s first English-language book, The Boy at the Door, was inspired by a walk along beautiful beachfront villas in Southern Norway, where everything looked so nice and so safe. “I remember feeling quite disturbed by that. There has to be something dark underneath this odd veneer,” says Dahl. “Nothing's ever that perfect.” It may not often resort to murder, but Norway has its fair share of domestic violence and suicide, and the regular human range of mental health issues, dark thoughts, affairs, and secrets. “We have to deal with this darkness in our society,” says Dahl. Maybe this is why Nordic noir is full of antihero detectives, and why the stories are more complicated than good or bad. “I think Nordic noir is quite intelligent. It goes darker and deeper. Maybe that’s one of the reasons it’s so popular.”
This Easter, all of Norway will be getting their crime fix in the coziest setting possible: The staple decor includes daffodils, pastel-colored eggs, bunnies, and yellow chicks—sometimes wielding a weapon or dripping in blood. Maybe Påskekrim is a bit like Halloween, which isn’t traditionally celebrated in Norway—it’s a holiday where people can face their fears by poking fun at what scares them. We can enjoy being spooked when we know we’re actually safe, because that’s when we can really feel the rush of the thrill.
* Translated from Norwegian.
Dear Atlas is Atlas Obscura’s travel advice column, answering the questions you won’t find in traditional guidebooks. Have a question for our experts? Submit it here.
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Dear Atlas,
My wife and I are obsessed with ghost stories, so for our anniversary we want to stay someplace that’s purportedly haunted. Are there any cool hotels or vacation rentals where one might have a paranormal encounter?
It seems every hotel and vacation rental today wants to boast a haunting—perhaps there’s no such thing as cursed press. If you’re interested in overnighting inside a ghost story, it can be a bit daunting to hunt through the hundreds of claims floating around. And while many visitors are entertained by staying at well-known spooky lodgings like the Stanley Hotel in Colorado, ever famous for its creepy atmosphere that inspired Stephen King to write The Shining, for this request we’re going beyond fame based on fictions or feelings based on appearances.
Rather than be so easily enticed by vague promises of unexplained sounds, smells, or misplaced items, we’ve searched for accommodations with deeper backstories and stronger archival “evidence,” if you will, for hosting centuries-old guests. We’ve located hotels around the world where ghostly claims are backed by chronicled histories and testimonies of past deaths. That means whether or not you succeed in finding your own paranormal encounter, you’ll know you’re sleeping in a setting connected to the afterlife. The choice then becomes a question of what flavor of ghost you prefer, from soldiers to murder victims and cowboys to child spirits.
Many fatalities have been documented at the Crescent Hotel in Eureka Springs, Arkansas. Not only did two people fall to their death on the premises, several people also died at the hands of a fraud doctor who experimented on patients and pocketed their money. You can hear about the grim history on the hotel’s ghost tours or participate in a nighttime ghost hunt, both of which include visits to the old basement morgue.
Quite a few stays seem plagued by the spirits of children. Sickness claimed many young guests, such as seven-year-old Mary Masters who died of cholera in 1846 at The Shelbourne in Dublin, a young girl who succumbed to polio on the eighth floor of the Hotel Alex Johnson in South Dakota, and a child named Rosalia Fihn who passed from typhoid fever in 1908 at The Manor in Saint Paul, Minnesota. Their misplaced items and laughter have supposedly lingered around rooms still rentable today.
Another girl is said to have drowned at The Drovers Inn in Scotland, though perhaps more strange are the cattle herders who regularly fought to the death while battling over cows in the 18th century and allegedly cause all kinds of mischief today. Murder played a never-ending role at both the Lizzie Borden House in Massachusetts, where you can stay and see where the infamous woman killed her parents with an axe, and the Villisca Axe Murder House, a farmhouse in Iowa where guests can attempt to sleep through the night after hearing about the six children and two adults bludgeoned to death on the property.
A more medieval murder can be found at Lumley Castle, built in 1389 in England, where the wife of the original owner was killed and thrown down a well by Catholic monks, so they could pretend she’d converted to Catholicism on her deathbed while her husband was away in Scotland. Stories of Lily Lumley are told on the “Night With the Spirits” tour of the castle, and you can even peer down the well of her doom.
At the Biltmore Hotel in Florida, the story begins with the mob murder of Thomas “Fatty” Walsh in 1929, but develops more morbid layers after being turned into a World War II hospital, which was abandoned in 1968 and reopened for bookings in 1987. Several other properties saw the mass death of soldiers, such as the Concord’s Colonial Inn in Massachusetts that functioned during the Revolutionary War and The Marshall House, which was once a Civil War hospital in Savannah, Georgia.
A prisoner of war met his end at Parador de Jaén in Spain, where some guests have had disturbances in hallways and in room 22. And Dragsholm Castle in Hørve, Denmark is said to be haunted by James Hepburn, the Earl of Bothwell, who died while imprisoned in the dungeon in 1578. Today, he’s just one of many ghosts said to roam the old palace-turned-prison-turned-hotel.
Some hotels today have been cursed by fatal accidents. A 1930s cruise ship called The Queen Mary, which was used during WWII to transport troops, is now a floating hotel in California—despite the girl who drowned in the on-deck swimming pool and a crew member who was crushed to death in the engine room. In Thailand, a fire claimed the lives of 13 people at First Hotel Bangkok in 1988, where guests say they’re still disturbed by the victims. Another deadly accident led to the haunting of the 17th-century Ballygally Castle in Ireland by Lady Isobel Shaw, after she fell from a tower window.
Finally, you might hear the faint click of cowboy boots at a few hotels in America’s Wild West, where many disputes were settled by gunfights. Some 26 victims were fatally shot at the St. James Hotel in New Mexico, a barman was shot dead at the Black Monarch in Colorado, and Chief Justice John P. Slough lost a draw in 1867 at La Fonda in Santa Fe, New Mexico. In each case, the hotels transport guests back in time with historic architecture, period decor, a touch of macabre, and maybe some unexpected nightly visitors.
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Danielle Hallock is a former senior editor at Atlas Obscura, Thrillist, and Culture Trip, as well as a writer for National Geographic, Well+Good, and Time Out. She's been working in travel since 2018, after four years as a managing editor at Penguin Random House. As a Chilean-American, crossing cultures and mountains is in her nature, and she continues to grow her collection of books, bagged summits, and passport stamps. Though she has a hard time sitting still, Brooklyn has become her base camp.
This article is adapted from the April 16, 2025, edition of Gastro Obscura’s Favorite Things newsletter. You can sign up here.
You might be surprised to learn that the edible portion of ginger is not technically a root. It’s a rhizome or “rootstalk,” a modified section of a plant stem that grows laterally underground, sending shoots above and roots below. And common ginger (Zingiber officinale) just might have humanity’s most-beloved rhizome (although its cousin turmeric is a close runner-up).
I come from an Italian-American family, and my early exposure to ginger was limited to restaurant food (my specific dislike of the pink pickled ginger served with sushi began in childhood) and gingerbread. But now that I’m an adult who cooks a lot of different cuisines, it’s become a staple of my fridge.
And I’m not alone in my present-day love for ginger: In fact, people have been ginger fans for a very long time. Ginger is a cultigen, which means it has been developed under human selection for so long that it’s become something that doesn’t exist in the wild (see also: dogs). Ginger’s long and widespread popularity is thanks in part to the ancient Austronesian peoples who first cultivated it. Beginning around 5000 BC, they carried the plant with them as they dispersed by boat from Asia across the Indian and Pacific Oceans, an event known as the Austronesian Expansion.
Some unrelated plants with a spicy root or rhizome are also known as ginger, such as the “wild gingers” of the genus Asarum found throughout the Northern Hemisphere. But within ginger’s own family tree, there’s a host of culinary species to explore. This guide will focus on five of the most common cultivated gingers, where to find them, and how to use them.
Myoga (Zingiber mioga)While common ginger is used widely in Japan, this species is unique to Japanese cuisine. Myoga has a delicate flavor with a refreshing tang that makes it popular in summertime. Unlike ginger, myoga’s rhizomes are not edible. Instead, its shoots and flower buds, fresh or pickled, are used to garnish dishes like miso soup and grilled fish. Myoga may be used on its own or combined with other toppings such as katsuobushi (dried fish flakes).
I’ve seen fresh myoga buds for sale at Japanese grocery stores in the U.S., but they’re not always easy to find outside Japan. However, Japanese stores may carry frozen or pickled myoga, or tubes of myoga paste.
Torch Ginger (Etlingera elatior)Some gingers are grown as ornamental garden plants rather than food, but torch ginger is used for both. Its fiery flowers have a crunchy texture and a flavor distinct from any other ginger: a citrusy mix of sour, bitter, spicy, and sweet. Torch ginger is predominantly eaten in Southeast Asia, and Asian grocery stores may sell the flowers frozen. These can be sliced thin as a raw garnish or ground in curry pastes and sauces.
In Thailand, torch ginger is used in salads, while in Malaysia, it lends its unique tartness to asam laksa, a sour curry noodle soup. Indonesians use torch ginger in sambal (chili relish) and regional fish dishes like arsik, associated with the Batak peoples of Sumatra. The first time I ever used torch ginger was in this recipe for arsik, which actually calls for both the fruit and flower of the plant, as well as local spices like andaliman, a cousin of Sichuan pepper. Although I had to make a few substitutions, the end result was phenomenally flavorful.
Galangal or Thai ginger (Alpinia galanga)Many recipes call for both ginger and galangal, but be wary of substituting. As Thai chef Pailin Chongchitnant writes in her article “Galangal 101,” “that’s like saying you can use rosemary instead of basil. Sure, you CAN use it, but the flavors are totally different.” Galangal lacks the spiciness of ginger and, like its cousin cardamom, is often said to taste of camphor and pine.
Today, galangal is mainly associated with Thai cuisine, to such an extent that it’s sometimes called “Thai ginger.” But in the Middle Ages, galangal (or the old-timey galingale) was widely traded to the Middle East and Europe alongside other Asian spices like black pepper. Medieval Western recipes mainly call for dried and powdered galangal, but in its native Southeast Asia, the rhizome is typically used fresh. It’s pounded with other aromatics, including other gingers, to form the base of soups and curries. Galangal features prominently in Cambodian and Indonesian recipes, as well as in Thai dishes like tom kha gai, which means “chicken galangal soup.”
Galangal rhizomes freeze well and can be purchased from Asian grocery stores. They are a bit tougher to cut and peel than other gingers. The unrelated Cyperus longus is also called galingale for its fragrant rhizome, but it’s used in perfume more than cuisine. However, there are three different gingers known as “lesser galangal.” One, Alpinia officinarum, is less-widely used in cuisine, so let’s skip it. For clarity’s sake, I’ll refer to the other two lessers by some of their other names: fingerroot and sand ginger.
Fingerroot or Krachai (Boesenbergia rotunda)The shape of this plant’s rhizomes has given rise to colorful common names, including “fingerroot” and “Chinese keys.” While they do look a bit like human fingers or dangling keys, “Chinese” is misleading, because people cook with them in Southeast Asia more than China.
Fingerroot has more bite than galangal but less than ginger, and its sweet, peppery flavor is hard to substitute. It’s an essential ingredient in the Thai sour seafood curry gaeng som, which is my favorite way to use it. Fingerroot is also included with other gingers in Cambodia’s national dish, amok trei, a souffle-like fish curry steamed in banana leaf cups.
You can find jarred or frozen fingerroot at stores that carry Southeast Asian ingredients, but it may be mislabeled as galangal or labeled unhelpfully as “rhizome.” Check for the distinctive shape and its Thai name, krachai (กระชาย in Thai writing).
Sand or Aromatic Ginger (Kaempferia galanga)The Chinese food blog The Woks of Life suggests galangal as the nearest substitute for sand ginger. While closer in flavor to true galangal than fingerroot, sand ginger has a unique, sharp fragrance all its own. It shows up as a dried spice in Southern Chinese cooking. I first used it in The Woks of Life’s recipe for rou jia mo, a braised meat dish nicknamed “Chinese hamburger” because it’s served on sliced buns. The sand ginger adds a cooling hint of camphor to the complex seasoning in the meat. Sand ginger is also used in a similar fashion to other gingers in Southeast Asia. Another dish I have made with it is karedok: an Indonesian salad with a creamy peanut dressing so delicious I would probably eat cardboard if it were doused in it.
Like galangal, sand ginger becomes tough and woody when dried. Fresh or frozen versions may be difficult to source, but Chinese stores carry it as dried slices or powder. It’s sometimes just labeled “ginger,” so check for the scientific name or the Chinese name of sand ginger (shā jiāng fěn, 沙姜粉) to make sure.
This story was originally published on The Conversation. It appears here under a Creative Commons license.
Every morning in Miami, our fieldwork begins the same way. Fresh Cuban coffee and pastelitos—delicious Latin American pastries—fuel our team for another day of evolutionary detective work. Here we’re tracking evolution in real time, measuring natural selection as it happens in a community of Caribbean lizards.
As an assistant professor of ecology and evolution at Georgia Tech, my journey with these remarkable reptiles has taken me far from my London roots. The warm, humid air of Miami feels natural now, a far cry from the gray, drizzly, and lizard-free streets of my British upbringing.
Our research takes place on a South Florida island roughly the size of an American football field—assuming we’re successful in sidestepping the American crocodiles that bask in the surrounding lake. We call it Lizard Island, and it’s a special place.
Here, since 2015, we’ve been conducting evolutionary research on five species of remarkable lizards called anoles. By studying the anoles, our team is working to understand one of biology’s most fundamental questions: How does natural selection drive evolution in real time?
Each May, coinciding with the start of the breeding season, we visit Lizard Island to capture, study, and release all adult anoles—a population that fluctuates between 600 and 1,000. For the entire summer, female anoles lay a single egg every seven to 10 days. By October, a whole new generation has emerged.
Anoles aren’t early risers, so we don’t expect much activity until the Sun strengthens around 9:30 a.m.; this gives us time to prepare our equipment. Our team catches anoles with telescopic fishing poles fitted with little lassos, which we use to gently pluck the lizards off branches and tree trunks. Ask any lizard biologist about their preferred lasso material and you’ll spark the age-old debate: fishing line or dental floss? For what it’s worth, we recently converted—we’re now on Team Fishing Line.
Picture yourself as an anole on Lizard Island. Your life is short—typically just one year—and filled with daily challenges. You need to warm up in the Sun, find enough food to survive, search for a mate, guard your favorite branch from other lizards and avoid being eaten by a predator.
Like human beings, each lizard is unique. Some have longer legs, others stronger jaws, and all behave slightly differently. These differences could determine who survives and who doesn’t; who has the most babies and who doesn’t.
These outcomes drive evolution by natural selection, the process where organisms with traits better suited to their environment tend to survive and reproduce more. These advantageous traits are then passed on to future generations, gradually changing the species over time. However, scientists still have an incomplete understanding of exactly how each of these features predicts life’s winners and losers in the wild.
To understand how species evolve, researchers need to crack open this black box of evolution and investigate natural selection in wild populations. My colleagues and I are doing this by studying the anoles in exquisite detail. Last year was especially exciting: We ran what we called the Lizard Olympics.
As the morning heat builds, we spot our first lizards: Cuban brown anoles near to the ground, and the mottled scales of Hispaniolan bark anoles just above them. Further up, in the leafy tree canopies, are American green anoles, and the largest species, the Cuban knight anole, about the size of a newborn kitten.
In 2018, a new challenger entered the arena—the Puerto Rican crested anole, a species already present in Miami but one that hadn’t yet made it to Lizard Island. Its arrival provided us with an unexpected opportunity to study how species may evolve in real time in response to a new neighbor.
Catching these agile athletes requires patience and precision. With our modified fishing poles, we carefully loop the dental floss over their heads. Each capture site is marked with bright pink tape and a unique ID number; all lizards are then transported to our field laboratory just a short walk away.
Here, the real Olympic trials begin. Every athlete goes through a comprehensive evaluation. Our portable X-ray machine reveals their skeletal structure, and high-resolution scans capture the intricate details of their feet. This is particularly critical: Like their gecko cousins, anoles possess remarkable sticky toes that allow them to cling to smooth surfaces such as leaves and maybe even survive hurricanes.
We also measure the shape and sharpness of their claws, as both features are crucial for these tree climbers. DNA samples provide a genetic fingerprint for each individual, allowing us to map family relationships across the island and see which is the most reproductively successful.
The performance trials are where things get interesting. Imagine a tiny track meet for lizards. Using high-speed video cameras, we precisely test how fast each lizard runs, and using specialist equipment we measure how hard it bites and how strong it grips rough branches and smooth leaves.
These aren’t arbitrary measurements—each represents a potential evolutionary advantage. Fast lizards might better escape predators. Strong bites might determine winners in territorial disputes. Excellent grip is crucial for tree canopy acrobatics.
Each measurement helps us answer fundamental questions about evolution: Do faster lizards live longer? Do stronger biters produce more offspring? These are the essential metrics of evolution by natural selection.
As afternoon approaches, the team relocates each piece of bright pink tape and returns the corresponding lizard to the exact branch it was caught on. The anoles now sport two tiny 3-millimeter tags with a unique code that lets us identify it when we recapture it in future research trips, along with a small dot of white nail polish so we know not to catch it immediately after we let it go.
At 8:30 p.m., with the Lizard Olympics done for the day, we return to the island donning headlamps. Night brings a different perspective. Some of the most wily lizards are difficult to catch when fully charged by the midday Sun, so our nocturnal jaunts allow us to find them while they sleep. However, it’s often a race against time. Hungry lizard-eating corn snakes are also out hunting, trying to find the anoles before we do. As we wrap up another 16-hour day around 11:30 p.m., the team shares stories of the night.
Now spanning 10 years, 10 generations, and five species, our Lizard Island dataset represents one of the longest-running active studies of its kind in evolutionary biology. By tracking which individuals survive and reproduce, and linking their success to specific physical traits and performance abilities, we’re documenting natural selection with unprecedented detail.
The Lizard Olympics is helping us understand why. The larger, more aggressive crested anoles are forcing brown anoles to spend more time on the ground, where those with longer legs might run faster to escape predators—allowing them to better survive and pass on their long-leg genes, while shorter-legged anoles might be eaten before they can reproduce.
By watching natural selection unfold in response to environmental changes, rather than inferring it from fossil records, we’re providing cutting-edge evidence for evolutionary processes that Charles Darwin could only theorize about.
These long days of observation are slowly revealing one of biology’s most fundamental processes. Every lizard we catch, every measurement we take adds another piece to our understanding of how species adapt and evolve in an ever-changing world.
So far we have uncovered two fascinating patterns. Initially, it didn’t pay to be different on Lizard Island. Anoles with very average shapes and sizes lived longer compared with those that are slightly different. But when the crested anoles arrived, everything changed: Suddenly, brown anoles with longer legs had a survival advantage.
Just before midnight on April 14, 1912, the RMS Titanic struck an iceberg. What happened next should be a familiar story by now: The iceberg ripped open the hull of the ship’s starboard side, flooding the compartments with the icy waters of the North Atlantic. The closest ship was hours away, and there weren’t enough lifeboats to accommodate all the passengers. Of the 2,224 people estimated to be on board, more than 1,500 died.
The disaster has been the subject of public fascination for more than a century. There are monuments, museums, and memorials dedicated to the ship and the people who were lost when it sank. It has inspired books, poems, plays, and movies—the 1997 James Cameron romance arguably the most famous of the bunch. It also spurred changes in maritime regulations, as well as research into the cause of the wreck and its aftermath. In these five stories, Atlas Obscura explores the different facets of the Titanic’s legacy.
For Sale: A Titanic Survivor's Light-Up Cane by Sabrina ImblerElla White, a wealthy 55-year-old widow, had a first-class ticket for the Titanic and a slightly less luxurious seat on Lifeboat No. 8, the second boat to leave the sinking ship. White used the battery-powered light-up cane to navigate the pitch-black ocean, and her group of survivors was eventually picked up by a nearby ship. In a 2019 auction, the cane sold for $62,500.
Make the Jellied Delicacy Served Aboard the Titanic by Diana HubbellThe night before the Titanic sank, the passengers in first class dined on a sumptuous 11-course feast that included freshly shucked oysters, spring lamb with mint jelly, asparagus in vinaigrette, poached salmon with mousseline sauce, filet mignon, and roast duckling. For dessert, one of the options was a wiggling, glinting Chartreuse jelly adorned with peaches, and we have the recipe.
Where Are the World’s Most Dangerous Seas? by Laura KiniryThe Atlantic Ocean between Southampton, England, and New York City is a notoriously rough stretch of sea, especially during winter months, when heavy winds and rains can seemingly whip up in an instant. But despite this being the final resting place for the Titanic—which sank about 400 miles off the coast of Newfoundland—most marine professionals wouldn’t deem it to be the world’s most dangerous body of water. But nailing down which one actually is the most dangerous is complicated.
The World’s Fastest Glacier Is Loud, Dangerous, and Transfixing by Matthew H BirkholdHundreds of miles north of the Arctic Circle, the Jakobshavn Glacier hurls icebergs into the sea. Glaciologists suspect this mass of ice produced the iceberg that sank the Titanic in 1912. Today, Sermeq Kujalleq—Greenlandic for “southern glacier”—still slithers along the same rocky fjord. It’s the world’s fastest iceberg, traveling an average of 130 feet every 24 hours and calving more than 4 billion tons of ice each year into Greenland’s Ilulissat Icefjord.
The SS United States Heads Into Unknown Waters by Matthew ChristopherThe SS United States was built nearly 40 years after the Titanic sank, but precautions taken on its maiden voyage were influenced by the Titanic’s disastrous trip across the Atlantic. They worked—the bigger, faster ship set a record that it still holds for the fastest eastbound crossing by an ocean liner. But even with all its successes, the United States is also bound for the ocean floor. Despite efforts to preserve the historic ship as a museum, the ocean liner will instead become the world’s largest artificial reef.
“A-TE-PEC! A-TE-PEC! A-TE-PEC!”
It was loud enough in the gymnasium to make one’s eardrums hurt. Fans screamed from the rafters, many decked out in the red and white colors representing the town of San Juan Atepec. People clapped noisemakers, twirled wooden rattles.
Spectators overflowed from the bleachers onto the concrete steps and the hardwood floor. At the center of the arena, 10 men from the Oaxacan mountain towns of San Juan Atepec and Natividad took fadeaway jumpers, blocked shots, and dove for loose balls like their village’s honor depended on it. Because it did.
It was late March, but this was not March Madness. This was the championship of La Copa Benito Juárez, the gauntlet of Oaxacan hoops. At this tournament, there are no corporate sponsorships, no prize money. Just some 6,000 players and fans from the basketball-crazed mountains of the Sierra Juárez, trekking to the Zapotec hamlet of Guelatao de Juárez, driven by, as the tournament’s motto goes, el honor de competir.
The players are good, and they are serious. Draining three-pointers and sprinting cross-court for Eurostep layups, the competitors in the men’s and women’s Open category—open to people of all ages—hoop at a level around NCAA standards.
“Basketball starts for us at a really young age,” said Cristian Brian Caballero Bautista, a star post player for San Juan Atepec, standing in the middle of the arena minutes after his team won La Copa. “It’s inculcated in us.”
The love of basketball runs deep. The players from each town—who themselves range from 6 years old in the Chupon category to 50 years and up in the Master category—travel with gangs of porristas, somewhere between cheerleaders and groupies, who wear matching T-shirts, wave flags, and make all kinds of noise to remind their representatives that they have a village behind them. And fans fill the town’s streets, all the way up to the windy road that hugs the mountains and brings visitors to the Gimnasio Benito Juárez, where the cup’s premier games are played.
Most of Mexico is known for its rabid love of soccer. But in the Sierra Juárez, basketball is a way of life.
“Now it actually helps contribute to their separateness,” said Jorge Santiago, a Pittsburgh-based photographer who grew up in Guelatao and has been documenting Serrano basketball for around 15 years. “We are not soccer players. We are different from the rest of Mexico.” Santiago also said that basketball was one of the only pastimes available to him during his youth.
Gonzalo Edmundo Méndez Hernández, 75, who helped found La Copa Benito Juárez, sat in his house nestled into the hills of Guelatao the day before the tournament, and explained basketball’s appeal. “In the area of Guelatao, where I grew up, there aren’t huge spaces for playing other sports.”
No huge flat spaces, that is. Regulation NBA basketball courts are about 1/16th the size of a FIFA soccer field—just small enough to nestle into the hills of the Sierra Juárez, a cluster of districts in the Sierra Norte mountain range that slashes across the state of Oaxaca. Throughout the region, locals host dances, weddings, and political meetings on the paved courts.
Guelatao de Juárez is located at an altitude of about 6,000 feet, a 1.5-hour winding drive north of Oaxaca City. The area around it is lush, green, and mountainous, and the town boasts an idyllic pond near its center known as the “Enchanted Lagoon.” (Guelatao comes from the Zapotec word Yela-too, which means “little lagoon.”)
But the pueblo is most famous for being the birthplace of Benito Juárez, Mexico’s first Indigenous president and a trailblazing reformer. Every year, Guelatao hosts a series of civic events, and tournament rounds, in the weeks leading up to Juárez’s March 21 birthday. On that day, which is a national holiday, there are more events, and—the biggest draw of all—the championship of La Copa Benito Juárez. This year on March 21, President Claudia Sheinbaum paid Guelatao a visit, just like her predecessor, Andrés Manuel López Obrador, had in the past.
The hilly Zapotec village, which in 2020 had a population of 657, transforms to accommodate the deluge of visitors, all of whom get to enjoy the festivities for free. The municipality contracts 41 cooks to prepare delicious breakfast, lunch, and dinner for an estimated 2,500 diners at the town’s complimentary canteen.
Cooks from across the region sell their wares throughout the rest of Guelatao. In a food-filled plaza near the town’s center, a stall hawks tender, dripping roast goat barbacoa along with bowls of its rich consommé. The narrow mountain pass leading to the tournament’s central gymnasium is lined with food stalls. A group of women by the arena’s entrance make moist, charred empanadas de verde and sweet, smokey tacos de mole negro good enough to make a food writer wax poetic. This is Oaxaca, after all.
“Una convivencia más que una competencia.”
Gonzalo Edmundo Méndez Hernández lives near the center of Guelatao, on a street so steeply curved that a right turn from his front door guarantees a mild workout. His large house has a verdant garden and a long patio that leads to his wife’s restaurant, Comedor Yela-Too, where she prepares a mean mole rojo and other Oaxacan dishes.
Born in Guelatao in 1949, Méndez has spent much of his life teaching music locally and in Santa Ana, California. Like other Serranos, he was a serious hooper through childhood and early adulthood. He’s now working on a book about the history of Serrano basketball and La Copa Benito Juárez.
Méndez traces the history of Serrano basketball back to boarding schools for Indigenous youth that President Lázaro Cárdenas helped start in the 1930s. At the schools, one of which was located in Guelatao, sports were a part of the program. Basketball caught on quickly because, in addition to being enjoyable, its small courts suited the local terrain of mountains, rivers, and forests.
In his home study, flanked by bookshelves and a hefty accordion case, Méndez recounted how this basketball-enamored town founded the region’s largest basketball tournament. In 1977, a man named Israel Garcia Martinez, from the nearby Zapotec town of Capulalpam de Méndez, commissioned a silver cup bearing Benito Juárez’s likeness from artisans in Mexico City, and donated it to Guelatao with the idea of creating the first Copa de Benito Juárez. Leaders from the region gathered to organize the competition and selected Méndez to lead the process.
The idea behind the cup, Méndez said, was “to unify the pueblos through sports, while honoring Benito Juárez on his birthday.”
Bringing together the people of the Sierra Juárez is not a simple task. The high peaks and thick forest in this 660-square-mile mountain range separated people from one another for thousands of years, contributing to a patchwork of cultural diversity.
Three peoples—Zapotec, Mixe, and Chinantec—live in the region. Each of these groups represents a family of multiple languages, with Zapotec containing a whopping 62 distinct tongues. This means that people from two Zapotec towns might speak different languages, but will still be able to understand each other.
Some of the region’s communities have had long-standing territorial disputes that sometimes flare up into violence. When communities are in open conflict, the Sports Committee bars them from attending the Cup. But both Gonzalo Méndez and one of the tournament’s commentators, Jorge Jaltianguis, said that relations between pueblos were more peaceable here than in other parts of the state. “The Sierra Juarez is very unified,” said Fanny García Hernández, Guelatao’s councilwoman in charge of sports, culture, education, health, and ecology. “We view problems of other communities as our own. That’s how we identify as Serranos.”
Today, organizers, fans, and players all say that the Cup helps promote a convivencia, or coexistence, between the Sierra Juárez’s diverse peoples.
Alfonso Herdández, a star player for La Natividad, lost in the Open-category finals to Atepec, then woke up early the next morning to run a sporting event for children with Down’s syndrome. He reflected on the previous day’s competition with pride. “It doesn’t matter who wins or loses,” he said. “Es una convivencia más que una competencia.” It’s a coexistence more than a competition.
“Friends, acquaintances that you don’t see all year round, you get to see in Guelatao,” he added. “From other places, other communities.” People drive for as much as six hours over snaking mountain roads to get to Guelatao from other towns.
And many players travel from even farther. Oaxaca is the second-poorest state in Mexico, and many people have left the Sierra Norte for other parts of Mexico and the United States, turning some pueblos into ghost towns. To qualify to represent a pueblo, a player needs to be, at most, a third-generation descendant of someone born there.
Now, many pueblo’s teams are composed of people who don’t live there, and who meet up in the weeks and months before La Copa Juárez to train. The towns' emigrants also donate money to help their home teams buy jerseys and charter transportation.
Jorge Santiago, the Guelatao-born photographer, said that during the Cup’s early years, Oaxacans who had emigrated to the United States would come back to Guelatao to hoop. Starting in the early 2000s, however, anti-immigrant crackdowns in the States, along with worsening conditions in Northern Mexico, made it difficult for players to travel back and forth across the border. But now, an entire generation of Oaxacans has had children in the States who are U.S. citizens and can easily return to play in the Cup. In Southern California, the epicenter of the Oaxacan-American community, players compete in Oaxacan basketball leagues, which include tournaments organized by hometown—each one like a mini Copa Juárez.
On the day of the championship, Gio Quero, 21, chatted in easy English with his cousins at a food stall near the central gymnasium. The family had traveled from Santa Ana, California, to represent their parents’ and grandparents’ hometown, Latuvi, in the Under-23 category. Though Quero normally plays guard in the United States, at La Copa Juárez he plays center, because at six feet tall, he’s bigger than most Oaxacans.
Quero said that his parents have always been too busy working to play basketball, but that they raised him with a love of the game. “Honestly, we’re not doing it for ourselves. We’re doing it for our family,” he said. “I want to win as many of these tournaments as I can for them, you know?” He and his cousins participated in their first Copa a few years ago, and won. His parents cried when they heard the news.
This year, his team lost in the semifinals. “It sucks,” he said. “But, you know, other teams here are really good.”
Though La Copa Benito Juárez casts a wide net for participants, when it was first founded, only men were allowed to compete. Then, in 1993, Méndez campaigned to add a female category to the tournament. Now, there are women athletes in every age group except for the two oldest ones, Veterans (40 and up) and Masters (50 and up).
But attitudes have taken longer to shift. At a presentation for a magazine about La Copa, Gabriela Linares Sosa, a biologist and Indigenous rights activist, cited a Facebook post in which someone wrote, “The first time a women’s team from my community went to La Copa Benito Juárez, I remember someone from my community saying, ‘Where are you going? Our community has a name to maintain. You should stay in our pueblo and make tortillas or something.’”
Standing outside the arena with a group of porristas from San Juan Tabá, Aracelly Mendoza, 41, said that she grew up with a strict curfew, and that her parents told her that a woman's place is in the home. Because of this, in her generation, it has been men more than women who have benefitted from the convivencia promoted by the Cup.
But in the last decade, she’s seen a dramatic change. “Thank god, that’s all going away now,” she said, holding a wooden rattle that she had twirled throughout her pueblo’s match in the afternoon. “Now, we can go out, and they let us be out here screaming!”
“The girls today grow up with more connections between pueblos. Now they go out, coexist, and get to know each other.” This year, her 17-year-old daughter competed in the Cup.
For sisters Elisa and Michelle Águilar from Ixtlan, which neighbors Guelatao, basketball has been life-changing. Outfitted in their town’s green and black jerseys, they spoke with easy confidence outside the stadium before they had to begin their warm-up for the championship match. “Basketball has been the key to opportunity for us. Not only has it allowed us to study; it has also helped us to meet people from all over,” Elisa said.
Born to a family of basketball lovers—their father is a coach—they started playing in La Copa Juárez when they were each around six years old. Both went on to earn basketball scholarships as undergraduates at Tecnológico de Monterrey; Michelle, 31, now works for a multinational beverage company and Elisa, 27, is a professional basketball player in two Mexican organizations, including the country’s foremost league, the Mexican Sports Association of Basketball (ADEMEBA).
This year, Elisa decided to take a break from professional basketball so she could focus on representing Ixtlan in La Copa Juárez with her sister. “We prefer to play here,” she said. “Even if more professional opportunities come.”
An hour later, in a stadium packed with screaming fans, the sisters showed what chemistry and months of 6 a.m. practices can do: With a bunch of smooth jump shots, graceful spin moves, and crafty layups, they led their team to victory over Tagayu.
The day before the championship, it rained in Guelatao. Gonzalo Méndez sat at a table on his covered patio with his friend Aldo González Rojas. González, who helped organize the tournament last year, was reflecting on the colossal task of hosting hundreds of teams and thousands of visitors at a basketball smackdown in this tiny town. “If you go to the United States, and say, ‘Let’s see. Let’s start a regional tournament,’ people won’t be able to do it. Why? Because it depends on making decisions in a collective manner.’”
González Rojas is the former president of Guelatao, a position that lasts one and a half years and includes no salary. But when it came to the Copa, he wasn’t making decisions alone—he had to consult with the Sports Council, a body made up of representatives from all of the towns involved in the tournament.
The council has a precedent in the communal assemblies that govern the vast majority of Oaxaca’s more than 10,000 communities. Guelatao-born anthropologist Jaime Martinez Luna uses the term comunalidad to describe what he calls “the central concept of Oaxacan life”: one that values the collective over the individual and sees people and nature as interconnected. Land is often managed communally, large councils plan fiestas, and starting in adolescence, people take on duties in town—like that of community security, or topil—out of obligation to the collective, often with no expectation of pay.
Almost all of the tournament’s major services—cleaning, housing, security, and even coaching—are done as comisiones, or community assignments, for no pay. Cooking, a truly massive undertaking for thousands of hungry guests, is the one exception, and is contracted out. The organizers have refused corporations’ offers to sponsor things like water and beer. “Here, people say, ‘No. This is ours,’” said González Rojas.
Around 9 p.m., in the moments after Atepec’s victory over Natividad, fans emptied out into the star-lit mountain pass and made their way to the center of town. The Oaxacan public broadcast station interviewed players, and young admirers posed for photos with their favorite athletes.
Gonzalez Rójas milled about, cheerful but not yet retired for the night. “I still have a comisión to take care of!” he said. “I have to go grab my broom.”
If you were to look past the basketball players and the beaming fans, you would just see him, the former president of the town, sweeping up the debris of a hard fought-game. In Guelatao, everyone has a role to play.
One hundred and fifty million years ago, the swamps of Fujian province in southeastern China teemed with life. Fossils reveal a rich Jurassic ecosystem dubbed the Zhenghe Fauna, where turtles, frogs, and fish filled the waters and feathered dinosaurs stalked or waded on long, slender legs. And flitting about in the trees, there was a tiny creature whose recent discovery has upended our understanding of when and how birds became birds.
Its scientific name is Baminornis zhenghensis, a mixture of Mandarin and Ancient Greek meaning “Eight Min bird from Zhenghe” (Eight Min is a historical name for Fujian). Paleontologists discovered its incomplete fossil in 2023 and published a report about it in Nature in February 2025. In a written statement, Wang Min of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, lead researcher on the fossil, described Baminornis as similar in size to “a domesticated pet parrot.” Although Baminornis had small claws on its wings and may have had teeth in its beak, overall, it didn’t look very different from modern birds. That’s exactly what makes it so remarkable.
Just like today’s birds, Baminornis’s spine ended in a fused, stumpy tailbone called a pygostyle. It’s an adaptation for flight that shifts the body’s center of gravity and anchors the tail feathers used for steering in midair. Wang called the development of the pygostyle “one of the most profound changes in body structure during the transition of dinosaurs into birds.” But Baminornis is “the sole Jurassic and the oldest short-tailed bird yet discovered," Wang wrote, predating previous record-holders like Yixianornis and Confuciusornis by about 20 million years. The discovery offers a new perspective on when birds started to look the way they do now.
In a commentary published in Nature, paleontologist Stephen L. Brusatte wrote that Baminornis “ranks among the most important bird fossils unearthed since the discovery of Archaeopteryx." In 1861, just two years after Charles Darwin published On the Origin of Species, the first specimen of Archaeopteryx was discovered in Germany, sending shockwaves through the scientific community. Here was a smoking gun for the nascent theory of evolution: An apparent “missing link” between reptile and bird, with feathered, clawed wings, beakless, toothy jaws, and a long, bony tail.
Our knowledge of how birds developed from dinosaurs has come a long way since then. Archaeopteryx is no longer regarded as the direct ancestor of modern birds, but one of many offshoots of the same feathered family tree. However, Archaeopteryx remained the oldest-known bird until the early 2000s, when slightly earlier relatives like Anchiornis were unearthed in China. Prime fossil-forming conditions in some Chinese provinces during the Jurassic and Cretaceous have resulted in hotspots for fossil discoveries, especially feathered dinosaurs. But there are still few birds known from the Jurassic Period (200 to 145 million years ago), and none with a relatively modern appearance—until Baminornis.
Wang argues that Baminornis is modern enough to be the earliest-known species that can be definitively called a bird, rather than a feathered dinosaur. Zhou Zhonghe, another researcher from Wang’s team, said that Baminornis is “the true Jurassic bird,” not Archaeopteryx. Whether you call the bony-tailed species birds or not, we know that they existed alongside Baminornis and for millions of years after. Losing the tail might have made some Jurassic birds better fliers, but it did not give them an immediate survival advantage over tailed birds.
We shouldn’t assume that Baminornis is the direct ancestor of modern birds, as Archaeopteryx was once thought to be, just because of its tailbone. Studies suggest that key characteristics of modern birds, like hollow bones, feathers, and even flight, may have evolved multiple times independently in dinosaurs. Future research might show that the same is true for the fused tailbone.
Evolution does not move in a straight line from point A to point B, and even within the same lineage of animals, vast diversity can exist at the same time. Among the wealth of Jurassic and Cretaceous fossils from China are numerous near-birds and not-birds unlike anything that exists today. Species like Yi qi (Mandarin for “strange wing”) had both feathers and batlike membranous wings, possibly used for gliding rather than true flight. Others had four wings, due to elongated feathers on both sets of limbs. The Enantornithes or “opposite birds” resembled modern birds, but were also strikingly different, with fossil eggs suggesting that at least some species could fly from the moment they hatched.
Baminornis is the latest addition to this dizzying avian menagerie. While you probably wouldn’t think twice if you saw a living Baminornis perched on a telephone wire, the same can’t be said for an Archaeopteryx: Yet the two were contemporaries. The more fossils we discover, the more we see that the story of birds is complex and still far from complete.
For thousands of years, humans across the world have played music using some version of the ocarina, a rounded wind instrument that produces a flute-like sound. In ancient China, ocarina-like instruments date back to 5,000 BC, and the Maya and the Aztecs used them in religious ceremonies.
But the modern ocarina, a sweet potato–shaped instrument with 10 to 12 holes, was invented, by mistake, in the small Italian town of Budrio. Today, that same town is host to the world’s largest ocarina festival.
In 1853, Giuseppe Donati, a 17-year-old boy from Budrio, spent his time messing around with clay. “Donati used to play the clarinet in the town’s band,” says Christian Paolini, a tour guide at Budrio’s Ocarina Museum. ”He used to make make-shift instruments for his bandmates.” For one of his experiments, Donati set out to craft a whistle with a rounded base and a curved bell, like a trumpet. But while handling the clay prototype, he accidentally cracked the “neck” of the bell. “He tried playing the bottom part of the instrument and realized that it produced an interesting sound,” Paolini says.
In the years that followed his accidental invention, Donati perfected the design of the instrument, which he referred to as an ucarina, “small goose” in the local dialect. He devised a set of five ocarinas that produced a range of low-pitched to high-pitched notes. In 1863, Donati and his fellow musicians formed Budrio’s first ocarina quintet. “Donati’s idea of creating a set of five ocarinas dramatically expanded the instrument’s musical reach,” Paolini says. “The quintet could play quite a diverse range of music, from folk songs to opera themes.” Over the years, the group added two more ocarinas and the quintet became a septet.
In 1869, Budrio’s ocarina players performed at a theater in Bologna. The septet played a selection of themes from some of the most famous operas of the time, from Verdi’s La Traviata to Rossini’s The Barber of Seville. “The public loved it,” Paolini says. “The theater manager was so impressed that booked them again.” Word about this unusual music based on a “humble” instrument from Budrio got around.
In the following months, Budrio’s ocarina group toured major Italian cities such as Padua, Udine, and Ferrara. By the 1870s, the band was playing the most important European capitals like Vienna, Paris, and London. In 1874, the London Daily News reported on a concert held by the Budrio’s ocarina band at Crystal Palace, noting that the William Tell Overture was performed “with the same intensity and precision of a full orchestra.” At the time, the band was playing under the stage name the Montagnards des Appenines, the “mountain people from the Apennines," and wearing traditional shepherd costumes to perform. “Imagine seeing a group of seven men dressed like shepherds, playing opera themes with clay instruments, inside one of London’s most up-and-coming theatres,” Paolini says. “That must have been quite a scene.”
Many other Budrio residents, or Budriesi, also played a role in the ocarina’s unexpected success. Cesare Vicinelli, a member of Budrio’s original ocarina quintet, invented the first metal molds for ocarinas, producing instruments with a bright and clear sound. “He was considered the Stradivari of ocarinas,” Paolini explains. Alberto and Ercole Mezzetti, also members of the band, exported Budrio’s “little goose” beyond Italy. Ercole opened an ocarina workshop in Paris in 1877, winning medals for his innovative designs at the 1878 and 1900 World Expositions. His brother Alberto moved to London in 1879 and became a music teacher and editor of exercise books for ocarina students. “The story of the ocarina is the story of how Budrio gets on the world’s map,” Paolini says.
Ocarinas designed and crafted by generations of Budriesi are now kept in the town’s two-story Ocarina Museum. One exhibit is dedicated to the local craftsmen who have innovated on Donati’s invention. One of those craftsmen is Fabio Menaglio, who crafts ocarinas by hand in his workshop in Budrio. First, he models clay to make two pieces, the “head” and the body” of the ocarina. Then, he glues them together using slip, or liquid clay, and adds holes in the side of the ocarina using the tip of a drill. Menaglio leaves the ocarinas to air-dry on a wooden shelf, and later bakes them in a kiln. While drying and baking, the ocarina can shrink, so making sure to account for that while modeling the clay is a vital part of the process.
Menaglio calls himself a "craftsman of sound.” Each step of the ocarina-making process can affect how the instrument sounds, he explains. Small and elongated bodies make higher-pitched sounds, while larger and thicker ones emit lower-pitched sounds. Even when making ocarinas of the same variety, small differences in the inner volume of the body can produce different sounds. “We still make each instrument by hand, so naturally they are not exactly the same,” he explains. “My job is to make them as consistent as possible so that musicians can harmonize their sound more easily.” According to Paolini, Menaglio has gained a reputation as an “ocarina wizard” for the consistency of his instruments.
Along with ocarinas, Budrio also produces people who love to play them. In fact, the town still boasts a touring ocarina orchestra. Members of the current ocarina septet, known as the Gruppo Ocarinistico Budriese, get their ocarinas from Menaglio. Whenever they get new instruments, they’ll spend weeks together practicing their harmonies. “That’s what I love the most about playing the ocarina,” says Leonardo Carbone, the youngest member of the GOB. “It takes a lot of practice to reach a harmonized sound, but when you do it’s magical.”
In the past 15 years, Budrio’s ocarina septet has ventured beyond Europe. In China, Japan, and South Korea, their tours are always sold out. Part of the band’s success in East Asia goes back to the long-standing tradition of ocarina-like instruments in those countries. “If you listen to a concert by the GOB, it has a similar sound to traditional Taoist music,” Paolini says. But some of their appeal is a more recent phenomenon. Emiliano Bernagozzi, part of the GOB since the 1990s, says that the band first went to South Korea in 2010 for a concert. At the time, ocarinas were gaining traction in the country, transitioning from little-known instruments to a popular way to teach music in schools. The group was approached by local businessmen who loved their music so much that they offered to sponsor a national tour. The band’s entry into Japan followed a similar trajectory. “We were scouted by a PR firm that wanted to promote our music,” Bernagozzi says. “Now our performances at the Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre are always sold out.”
In recent years, the ocarina has also become a well-known instrument in North America. Many people in the gaming community discovered the instrument thanks to the 1998 video game The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time, where the player can solve puzzles by playing an ocarina. The US now has its first ocarina septet, Ocabanda, that performs traditional ocarina pieces as well as anime and video game themes.
Every year, in mid-April, the world’s ocarina-lovers descend on Budrio for the International Ocarina Festival. This year, organizers expect about a hundred artists from around the world to take part in live performances, talks, and workshops. “We are very proud of how this festival has become a gathering for ocarina and music lovers at large,” says Budrio’s mayor Debora Badiali. She adds that spontaneous encounters between ocarina players, craftsmen, and fans often give rise to unexpected partnerships, like in the case of electronic musician Godblesscomputers, who, at this year’s festival, will perform a live DJ set mixing electronic and ocarina music.
The town’s next goal is to further cement Budrio’s role as the epicenter of the global ocarina scene. Two years ago, nearby Bologna’s music conservatory, Conservatorio G. B. Martini, launched the world’s first official course in ocarina music. And officials are now discussing the creation of apprenticeships to teach the traditional craft of ocarina-making. “Since its invention, the ocarina has been the link between local heritage and the world,” Badiali says, “We want to promote our city as the place where anyone interested in this instrument comes to learn about it.”
Though Cincinnati is best known for breweries, another effervescent beverage has a long history in the Queen City: the nectar soda.
Home to the oldest pharmacy college in the U.S. west of the Alleghenies, the Eclectic Medical Institute (1845-1952), and Lloyd Brothers Pharmacists, Cincinnati was long on the forefront of the pharmaceutical industry. The city had a number of apothecaries with soda fountains, as well as confectioners serving countless carbonated concoctions—some claiming to cure a variety of ailments, and others simply providing customers with something sweet and refreshing to drink.
Enter the nectar soda. The flavor is a combination of vanilla and bitter almond, and the drink is pastel pink in color—a nod to the hue of almond flowers, according to Dann Woellert, a Cincinnati food historian, etymologist, and the author of Cincinnati Candy: A Sweet History. Nicknamed the “drink of the gods,” the bitter almond flavor of nectar soda balances out what would otherwise be overly sweet vanilla, creating an addictive taste that grows on you with each sip.
Nectar sodas have been served in Cincinnati since at least the late 1870s, though, like many iconic foods and beverages, its precise origins are murky. The only other U.S. city to embrace nectar sodas was New Orleans, but unlike Cincinnati, the tradition fizzled out in the Big Easy in the mid-20th century. Plus, Woellert says that the Queen City popularized them first. “They were served in Cincinnati nearly a decade before New Orleans,” he says.
While the Cincinnati nectar soda has multiple origin stories, each crediting a different pharmacist or confectioner, Woellert has concluded that John Mullane created the flavor after traveling to Quebec City to learn the art of confectionery from a prominent Canadian candymaker. He began serving nectar sodas in his confectionery shop in downtown Cincinnati in the late 1870s.
So, why did the nectar soda end up in Cincinnati and New Orleans, of all places? Wollert suspects that the bitter almond and vanilla flavor was used by the French Acadians who settled in both Quebec City and New Orleans.
Though nectar sodas aren’t as common as they were in the early 20th century, when they could be found at countless confectioneries and pharmacy soda fountains across Cincinnati, they’re still served at establishments throughout the city and the surrounding area. Nectar sodas have been on the menu at ice cream and chocolate shop Aglamesis Brothers since it opened in Cincinnati in 1908, if not shortly thereafter. That’s according to company president and CEO Randy Young, who is also a third-generation family member.
It’s unclear when nectar sodas were added to the menu at Graeter’s, a Cincinnati ice cream and chocolate shop that opened in 1870 and now has locations throughout the city and the Midwest, but Chip Graeter, chief of retail operations and a fourth-generation family member, says that they were especially popular throughout the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s.
In a January 28, 1947 article in the Cincinnati Enquirer, Tom Moore, the head of the soda department at Dow Drug Store—which operated 32 soda fountains throughout the metropolitan area at that time—said that “nectar is one of the most popular flavors in all of their stores, and has been for many years.” Five years prior, Dow ran an ad in the same newspaper which read: “Be glad you live in Cincinnati, the only place in the country where you can enjoy a Dow double-dip nectar soda.”
Originally, nectar syrup was made by combining half-and-half or milk with water, bitter almond extract, vanilla extract and red food coloring. While Aglamesis eventually switched to a dairy-free shelf-stable syrup, Graeter's recipe has never changed—it still contains milk and needs to be refrigerated.
Both Aglamesis and Graeter’s make nectar soda by mixing nectar syrup with a dollop of whipped cream, adding a scoop or two of vanilla ice cream, then topping it off with some soda water and more whipped cream.
Though Young says that nectar sodas are most popular with older adults, they’re also a hit with members of younger generations who try them. “People who grew up with them still love them today,” Graeter says. “We still make them in all of our stores, but they're not nearly as popular today as they once were, simply because milkshakes and smoothies have taken over.”
According to Young, there is a commercially available descendant of the nectar soda. “Commercial soda companies like Barqs and others came out with their version of cream soda—a bright pink soda—which got its flavoring from nectar soda,” he explains.
Indigenous Brazilians have fermented alcoholic beverages from the cassava root for thousands of years. These beer-like beverages go by names like cauim, caxiri, and tarubá. Fermentation is an important step in cassava processing—the raw root has chemicals that can turn into cyanide in the human body. Native peoples found that a bit of human saliva and some naturally occurring yeast could eliminate these toxins and improve the nutritious value of the tuber. When the technology of distillation arrived to the Munim River region (now in Maranhão), locals who already drank lightly alcoholic cassava beverages began to distill them. Tiquira was born.
The name tiquira is likely derived from the Tupi word tykyre meaning "to drip." But it is a curiosity that the spirit has flourished in only one Brazilian state, Maranhão. Margot Stinglwagner, founder of Guaaja Tiquira, the first modern brand to produce the spirit starting in 2016, says “It’s a spirit that is also unknown in Brazil. A few people have heard about tiquira—but usually only people who have gone to Maranhão once.” Accordingly, the state moved to declare the spirit as a piece of Cultural and Intangible Heritage in September 2023.
Part of the reason that tiquira has remained so isolated is that cachaça, Brazil’s rum, is far easier to produce. Because the rum comes from sugarcane, the sugar for fermentation is already there. “With cassava, you don’t have sugar,” Stinglwagner explains. “You must first transform the carbohydrates into sugar and then you can ferment and distill it.” To achieve this end, Guaaja Tiquira uses food enzymes instead of the traditional human saliva. Guaaja also differs from other distillers because they use full cassava roots where most tiquira moonshiners rely on processed farinha de mandioca, or cassava flour.
“The majority of people produce it illegally,” laughs Stinglwagner. “The state does nothing about it.” Outside of the urban center, tiquira is invariably a homemade product. Generally, tiquira makers don’t separate the "heads" (the first drops of liquor from a distillation, which contain harsher alcohols including toxic methanol and other pungent and volatile flavor compounds) from the "tails" (the final liquid produced from distillation, which has a low alcohol content and can have unwelcome bitter flavors), meaning the spirit is stronger and may contain more toxins and impurities. Some even macerate marijuana into the combined spirit to produce the doubly-illicit tiquiconha.
Maranhenses believe that you cannot get wet or bathe after drinking tiquira, lest you become faint or dizzy. Zelinda Machado de Castro e Lima, one of the great chroniclers of folk culture in Maranhão, has recorded other traditions surrounding the drink. Firstly, it is typical to pierce a cashew with a toothpick and soak it in a glass of tiquira for several hours. It is then sucked as a sort of boozy lollipop. She also writes about the belief that those drinking coffee should avoid tiquira, while locals say that fishermen on the coast used the liquor to sanitize wounds incurred on the job.
Finally, there is the curious question of the color of tiquira. In the tourist markets of São Luís, the spirit is always blushing a translucent violet. “They say that the color of tiquira is from tangerine leaves, but we tried to do it and the color from the leaves is not stable,” says Stinglwagner. “It is also not a strong color. The norms and laws for tiquira prohibit the addition of the leaves.” The violet color may be artificial (perhaps from food dyes), but some tiquiras do have a citrusy flavor.
Tiquira today is still largely relegated to the world of moonshining, but with the government’s recognition of the spirit and new legitimate ventures like that of Guaaja Tiquira, Brazil could be seeing more of the cassava liquor outside of its home in Maranhão.
“All the people say to me, ‘What is this new spirit?,’” says Stinglwagner. “I say, ‘It’s not a new spirit, it’s the oldest spirit from Brazil.’”
Know Before You Go
Tiquira is widely available in the downtown markets of São Luís, Maranhão. Both the local Mercado Central and touristic Mercado das Tulhas have many vendors selling tiquira. The commercial brand, Guaaja Tiquira, is also available in São Luís at Empório Fribal, in addition to Copacabana Palace and Fairmont Hotel in Rio de Janeiro, and Mocotó Bar e Restaurante in São Paulo.
The origins of Germany’s Maultaschen are deliciously devious. Legend has it that, in the late Middle Ages, a lay brother named Jakob invented the stuffed pasta dumplings at the Maulbronn Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site founded in 1147 by Cistercian monks in southwest Germany.
One direct translation of Maultaschen is “mouth pockets,” though “Maul” could just as easily refer to Maulbronn. Maultaschen are usually square dumplings (though sometimes they're rolled) and can be fried in a pan or served in broth. Commonly described as Germany’s version of Italian ravioli, they allegedly emerged as a way to use up an unexpected bounty of meat that Brother Jakob stumbled upon in the forest outside the monastery walls.
The twist? Although they abhorred waste, these monks weren’t allowed to eat the meat of four-legged animals, especially during the Catholic fasting period of Lent in the spring. So Brother Jakob minced the meat with herbs and onions and wrapped everything inside pasta dough, hiding the forbidden flesh from the eyes of his fellow monks—and even from the eyes of God.
In Swabia, the region encompassing much of Baden-Württemberg and part of Bavaria where Maultaschen originated, one of the colloquial names for the food references this deception directly: Herrgottsbescheißerle means “little God-cheaters.”
Everyone in Swabia has their version of the legend with more or less embellishment. Ludwig Nestler holds a master’s degree in heritage conservation and works for the State Palaces and Gardens of Baden-Württemberg, a government organization that oversees monuments like Maulbronn Monastery. His version of the tale includes a sack of stolen meat dropped in the woods by a fleeing thief, which inspires Brother Jakob’s trickery in the kitchen. But he acknowledges that there’s no undisputed “historically correct version” of how Maultaschen came to be. Similarly, everyone in Swabia has their own Maultaschen recipe, with unique ingredients for the minced filling, called Brät.
“Traditionally the Brät is made from pork mixed with herbs, onions, and occasionally bread crumbs for texture and stability,” says Nestler. Swabia, however, “was a rather poor region with limited amounts of meat due to rather unfertile land, so being adaptive and innovative has always been a part of the people’s nature.” As Maultaschen became popular, fish and seasonal vegetables like spinach, carrots, beets, and mushrooms became common inclusions.
Today, the European Union ties Maultaschen to Swabia with a Protected Geographical Indication, which lists required ingredients the authentic product should feature, but even the necessary inclusions are pretty loose, such as “pork and/or beef and/or veal” for meat Brät and “typical regional vegetables” for meat-free Brät. It speaks to the way the dumplings developed as subsistence food, used to stretch leftovers and reduce food waste.
Today, Germans throughout the country enjoy Maultaschen in dozens of flavors in all seasons thanks to grocery stores that stock packaged varieties made by companies like Ditzingen-based Bürger, whose mascot, Erwin, is a Maultasche (the singular form of the plural Maultaschen).
But the dumplings remain most popular in southern Germany. Maulbronn Monastery offers a special tour that pairs Maultaschen with wine from the monastery’s vineyards. And many locals, including Nestler’s family, still make them from scratch on special occasions—even during Lent, when meat might otherwise be off the menu. There’s no telling if it’s a fraud good enough to fool God, but it’s worth a shot.
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